The intricate relationship Filipinos have with their hair is deeply rooted in history, woven into epics, rituals, and expressions of pride and resistance. Today, a hairstyle can reflect personal style, beliefs, and even emotional state. This profound connection stems from centuries of diverse influences, starting with pre-colonial ancestors and continuing through globalization and the internet.
Before colonization, Filipinos predominantly wore their hair long. Accounts from Homonhon, now Eastern Samar, describe residents with waist-length tresses. Hair was held in such high regard that some cultures considered cutting it a punishment or a mourning ritual. Men in Surigao tied their hair in a knot at the nape, while a Butuan leader sported shoulder-length hair. “Long hair, interestingly, has always been a mark of masculinity in the Philippines,” says medical anthropologist Gideon Lasco from UP Diliman, pointing to its frequent mention in local epics. In the Ilocano epic *Biag ni Lam-Ang*, the hero returns home after defeating his father’s killers, and 99 maidens wash his hair in a river, so filthy it killed all the fish.
Hair care was paramount, with centuries-old practices using gugo (Entada phaseoloides), aloe vera, and coconut oil remaining popular today. “We don’t know exactly why [Filipinos came to value their hair], but how [they took care of it] is very well established,” Lasco adds.
This reverence for long hair among men shifted with the Spanish colonization, deemed uncivilized. “Long hair, which was associated with both genders as a mark of beauty, became gendered, and men were expected to have short hair,” Lasco explains. Short hair for men (and long hair for women) became a symbol of conformity to the church, the Spanish crown, and strict gender roles, a sentiment echoed in Catholic school dress codes and disapproving glances from conservative family members.
The friars, particularly, viewed hair cutting as an act of subservience to God, signifying a man’s break from his barbaric past. Portraits of national heroes and presidents reveal the changing hairstyles across decades. “If we look at hair as a fashion trend, we see that by definition, it also changes,” Lasco observes.
Men maintained short hair until the 1970s when the hippie movement gained traction. During Martial Law, however, hair became a tool of control once again. President Ferdinand Marcos mandated that men cut their hair above shoulder length. Long hair on men, once again, became a symbol of resistance, with elders comparing long-haired youths to revolutionaries like Sakay or Macabebe.
“There’s no such thing as a fixed perception or a fixed ideology when it comes to hair,” Lasco emphasizes. Nevertheless, straight hair has long been the Filipino ideal, while curly, wavy, or hair loss have been viewed negatively due to internalized oppression and racism. Long straight hair for women was the pinnacle of desirability for a long time, with hair commercials showcasing conventionally beautiful women with flowing black locks. The late 1990s witnessed a boom in hair straightening and rebonding, a trend that lasted until the 2010s.
Today, with global shifts toward decolonization, embracing natural textures, and personal choice, Filipinos of all genders can wear their hair as they please—straight, curly, or in various colors. “…What we can learn from looking at the history of hair and the anthropology of hair is that people value it, and therefore we should be celebrating this diversity of hairstyles [and] extending our respect to people for their choices of hair,” Lasco notes.
He also emphasizes the need for safety standards in the face of a burgeoning market for hair products. “…Even hair products can have a lack of regulation and therefore a lack of safety… people deserve to be offered therapies that are safe… and effective, and it’s up to the government, the FDA to raise the standards for that.” Hair, often overlooked, is a vital part of Filipino identity. Within our locks lies a history of oppression, expression, and revolution. By YVETTE TAN. Photographs by RENZO NAVARRO. Beauty Editor JOYCE OREÑA. Hair by COS SAKKAS, EFI DAVIES, FRANCESCO FONTANA, BILL WATSON and CHERRY REYES of Toni&Guy. Styling by GENO ESPIDOL and CLAIRE FERNANDO of Qurator Studio. Makeup: Noel Inocencio. Models: Laura Jhane Ojimba, Missy Bendaña, and Hazel Keying of Luminary Models, Saint Yves of IM Agency. Art Director: Jann Pascua. Producer: Bianca Zaragoza. Beauty Writer: Bianca Custodio. Nails: Extraordinail. Photographer’s Assistant: Dominic Pamatmat, Petra Gana. Hair Assistants: Jessica Riva, Gerelyn Valentino, Glenda Eugenio, Lindsay Agapito, and Mary Joy Casbadillo of Toni&Guy. Backdrops: Schmidli Backdrops from Espacio Creativo Escolta.
