HARUNOBUMURATA, the Japanese fashion label known for its captivating aesthetic, presented its Spring/Summer 2025 collection at the National Art Center, Tokyo, on August 27th, preceding the official start of Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO on September 2nd. While the brand chose not to participate in the fashion week due to scheduling conflicts at the venue, their decision to showcase their collection within the prestigious art center was no coincidence. The inspiration for the collection, as stated in the show notes, was the philosophy and aesthetics of renowned sculptor Constantin Brancusi.
Designer Harunobu Murata, the mind behind the brand, revealed that he was deeply moved by a comprehensive exhibition of Brancusi’s work, held earlier this year from March to July, which showcased the sculptor’s unique style influenced by African art. “I thought it would be amazing if the sculptures could come out of the exhibition rooms and walk around,” Murata shared after the show. Indeed, the collection featured a series of flowing long dresses that evoked the sculptural silhouettes of Brancusi’s work.
Murata’s fascination with sculpture stemmed from his belief that it represents an approach to “capturing the essence of things.” He sought to “create forms that naturally embody the human body as it moves, just like carving figures out of stone.” While the collection primarily featured monochromatic hues, there were also dresses that embodied the essence of plaster, created with white linen and white prints. The white pleats adorning the hems and necklines of jackets further emphasized the “sculptural atmosphere.”
There was another compelling reason behind Murata’s fascination with sculpture: “I feel like it captures time within its form, creating an impression of timeless beauty.” He elaborated, “As a brand, we deeply cherish the beauty found in fleeting moments, such as placing one’s hand in a pocket, passing someone by, or the way a dress moves in the wind. I’ve recently become increasingly obsessed with capturing these fleeting moments eternally.” This desire to encapsulate time manifested in the collection’s emphasis on capturing the soft flow of fabric through drapery, and the use of gradient-colored pieces that stood out amidst the predominantly monochromatic looks.
The brand collaborated with Nishimura Shoten, a renowned atelier known for its Nishijin-ori “hikihaku” (brocade with gold threads), to incorporate the “yakihaku” technique, which utilizes the property of silver to tarnish. This innovative approach reflected Murata’s desire to “capture the passage of time within the dress, just like how a sculpture might change color when exposed to rain.”
The simple, repeated unit of ruffles in several dresses served as another visual representation of “timelessness.” Adding to the collection’s artistic narrative, a grand piano was placed in the center of the runway, and French contemporary musician Kirill Richter, who also provided music for the previous season, presented a live performance. Murata shared that he discussed the theme of “capturing time” with Richter.
“He’s someone who’s incredibly interested in expressing the flow of time through his music,” Murata explained. “I told him, ‘It would be amazing if we could feel more time within the short span of the show.’ We had many conversations about this, and he composed the music based on them.”
Hearing Murata’s insights provides a deeper understanding of the cohesive connection between the collection and its narrative. However, beyond the dedicated fashion enthusiasts and celebrities who attended the show, it’s likely that few attendees would delve into the story behind the collection. In the end, the initial appeal needs to be through the product itself. With a clear concept and innovative use of traditional Japanese techniques, as showcased in this collection, HARUNOBUMURATA is poised to solidify its presence and further establish its unique identity within the ever-evolving world of fashion.
