Few journalists can claim to have lost count of the encounters they’ve had with renowned Hermes perfumer, Christine Nagel. Yet, here I am, seated in her leather-clad presence atop a Parisian building, enveloped by the warmth and creativity of her apartment-like laboratory and office. As the light pours in, Nagel unveils the tale of Hermes Barenia, her latest creation and the house’s 27th perfume, a story that writes itself.
From the moment she joined Hermes, Nagel knew she would create a chypre, a perfume structure she considers the epitome of elegance and timelessness. However, this chypre needed to embody the essence of the Hermes woman—a woman who trusts her instincts and carves her own path, much like the extraordinary figures who inspired Nagel, such as Nancy Cunard, Alexandra David-Neel, and Isabella Bird.
‘In perfume making, fruity, floral, musky, or woody are easily understood because the names themselves describe the olfactory family,’ explains Nagel. ‘But chypre is not a material; it’s an archetype of perfume design, a creation of perfume designers. Traditionally, a chypre always contains the same elements: a fresh citrus top note, an opulent floral bouquet of rose or jasmine, oakmoss, patchouli, and occasionally a touch of incense.’
But Nagel sought to create something distinct, a uniquely Hermes chypre. She meticulously chose her ingredients, seeking materials that would diverge from the classic chypre formula. For the citrus top note, she commissioned an exclusive bergamot for Hermes, a sharper, more assertive bergamot picked before maturity. The floral bouquet was a rare butterfly lily from Madagascar, a first in the history of perfumery. Instead of the typical woodland oakmoss, Nagel opted for oakwood, adding an elegant, sensual, and woody backbone to the fragrance.
Her approach to patchouli was equally unorthodox. She employed both a traditional, old-fashioned patchouli and a high-tech, natural patchouli obtained through innovative technology, creating a unique duality in the fragrance’s base.
The story of Barenia goes beyond the carefully chosen ingredients. It’s a tale inspired by childhood dreams and unwavering curiosity. Nagel recalls a cherished childhood fairytale about a magician who possessed a magical fruit capable of turning bitter into sweet. This tale, combined with her insatiable curiosity, led her on a quest for the miracle berry, a fruit containing a molecule called miraculin that can transform sour tastes into sweetness.
For years, Nagel searched for this elusive berry, finally tracking it down in Ghana five years ago. She acquired kilos of the berry, hoping to create an extract, but her initial attempts proved unsuccessful. However, the scent of the extract— reminiscent of dried apricots—and the molecules extracted from the berry sparked a new inspiration. Nagel decided to reconstruct the scent of the miracle berry from scratch, adding a touch of magical realism to her fragrance.
The journey to create Barenia was a testament to Nagel’s dedication and relentless pursuit of perfection. She embarked on numerous iterations, pushing the boundaries of her creativity and meticulously evaluating each blend. Even when she stumbled upon the perfect scent, she wasn’t content, repeating the process countless times, ensuring that the final result was nothing short of extraordinary.
The creation of Barenia wasn’t simply a professional endeavor for Nagel; it was a deeply personal journey. ‘I wasn’t afraid of anything; I wanted to try things out when something caught my attention,’ she explains. ‘I followed the story to the end and committed to it personally.’ This dedication, combined with her unwavering belief in the power of dreams and her fascination with the olfactory world, led to the birth of Barenia—a testament to the magic that unfolds when curiosity and artistry intertwine.
