Nestled deep in the Welsh countryside, Paternoster Farm is a restaurant that defies easy discovery. Its remote location, so far off the beaten track that even Google Maps struggles to find it, adds to its allure. The only indication of its presence is a tiny gap in a hedgerow, revealing the narrow farm track that leads to this culinary sanctuary. But once you navigate the winding path, you’ll be greeted by one of the most unique and acclaimed restaurants in Britain.
Paternoster Farm, situated near the Pembrokeshire village of Angle in the far west of Wales, has earned a coveted spot among the 100 best local restaurants in the UK, as awarded by the Good Food Guide. This prestigious recognition is the result of countless nominations from food enthusiasts across the country, each eager to champion their favorite dining destinations.
At the heart of Paternoster Farm’s success is Michelle Evans, a former lawyer who traded the bustling courtroom for the tranquility of the farm. With a passion for food and a self-taught culinary skillset, she has crafted a menu that showcases the finest ingredients Wales has to offer. Even with increasing acclaim and growing popularity, Paternoster Farm remains a hidden treasure, known primarily to those who appreciate the art of discovering genuine culinary experiences.
The journey to Paternoster Farm is an adventure in itself, rewarding those who persist with a truly unforgettable dining experience. The menu, which changes daily based on the freshest seasonal produce, features delectable dishes like slow roast Welsh mountain mutton shoulder with cavolo nero, shallots, and dill oil in the winter, or spring’s bounty of new season asparagus paired with crab, chilli, lemon, dill, pickled fennel, and marigold.
The setting itself is as remarkable as the cuisine. This former cowshed has been transformed into a charming and inviting restaurant, retaining its rustic charm while embracing modern elegance. The original cow stalls have been repurposed into intimate dining tables, and the old milking parlour pipes now serve as a striking lighting feature.
The ambiance is warm and inviting, with a battered old yellow Aga stove in one corner, rustic stone walls adorned with old kitchen and farm utensils, and a cavernous roof with original wooden rafters that bathe the space in soft light. In the colder months, a wood-burning stove provides warmth and cozy comfort.
Laura Clements, a writer for WalesOnline, captures the essence of Paternoster Farm’s unique appeal: “Nothing matches and yet it’s stylish and cosy.” The menu, which changes daily, features a delectable array of dishes, from locally caught oysters to home-reared beef and pork belly. The emphasis is on fresh, local ingredients, reflecting the farm-to-table ethos that defines Paternoster Farm’s culinary philosophy.
On her visit, Laura enjoyed a selection of sharing plates, highlighting the restaurant’s commitment to communal dining. She savored crispy wild mushroom and truffle arancini, a platter of heritage tomatoes with soft creamy buffalo mozzarella, and poached locally smoked salmon and potato salad. Her meal also included skate served with asparagus picked from Angle, a testament to the restaurant’s dedication to sourcing ingredients from the surrounding region.
The Good Food Guide, known for its discerning palate and insightful reviews, has identified key factors that contribute to a truly exceptional local restaurant experience. Paternoster Farm embodies these principles, with hands-on owners who are deeply involved in every aspect of the operation, a warm and welcoming atmosphere that embraces diversity, and a commitment to providing personalized service. The result is a dining experience that is as memorable as it is delicious.
