Huishan Zhang, the designer celebrated for his cinematic approach to fashion, has unveiled his pre-fall collection, a captivating ode to Luis Buñuel’s 1967 masterpiece, *Belle de Jour*, starring the inimitable Catherine Deneuve. This isn’t merely a superficial reference; rather, the film serves as the emotional and aesthetic backbone of the entire collection. As Zhang himself explained during a Zoom preview from China, “I like to express my experience and feelings from a movie. That’s something I always really enjoy doing.”
The collection’s opening statement—a double-faced wool opera coat, featuring a detachable embroidered collar, paired with signature fishnet tights and pointed-toe kitten heels—immediately establishes the collection’s core: refined daywear elevated to an art form. This foundation piece perfectly encapsulates Zhang’s commitment to creating complete, wearable wardrobes. The focus is on sophisticated elegance, seamlessly blending classic silhouettes with modern sensibilities.
From there, the collection unfolds, showcasing a breathtaking array of textures and embellishments. A salmon-pink sequined dress, exquisitely embroidered with floral appliqués, hints at the elaborate artistry to come. Guipure lace, layers of tulle, and all-over embellishments take center stage, demonstrating Zhang’s mastery of luxurious fabrics and intricate detailing. A subtle nod to Deneuve’s iconic crimson skirt suit in *Belle de Jour* is echoed in pre-fall’s matching separates, though reimagined in sophisticated taupe and hot pink, showcasing Zhang’s unique design perspective.
Balancing the elegance are pieces with a more youthful, rebellious edge. Cocoon-silhouette coats in black and gold jacquard, reminiscent of 1960s wallpaper, are styled with black or white ankle-length socks, adding a touch of playful modernity. These details reveal Zhang’s skill in creating a diverse collection that caters to a range of styles and preferences, all while maintaining a cohesive, elegant vision.
Zhang’s ambition, as he eloquently puts it, is “the whole concept of building this woman’s complete wardrobe.” This complete vision will be on display at a pop-up shop at Selfridges in London, available from now until early next year, offering his loyal clientele a chance to experience the collection firsthand. He will return to London before his February show, which will serve as a continuation of the themes and ideas explored in this pre-fall collection. This promises to be a highly anticipated event for fashion enthusiasts worldwide, showcasing the enduring power of cinematic inspiration in high fashion.
