Yuji Abe and Yu Kobayashi, the duo behind the Japanese fashion label Irenisa, aimed to create clothing that allows people to experience the world in a new way. Their spring show, held in a glass-walled studio above Harajuku station, showcased their latest collection, heavily inspired by the art of Lucio Fontana, the founder of Spatialism, known for slashing holes in his canvases. Irenisa, in its own way, does something similar with clothes, creating unique and unexpected designs.
The collection featured trousers with double waistbands, intentionally wonky collar plackets, and sporty nylon blousons with pinprick holes and pleated backs, creating a rippling effect across the shoulder blades. While the brand’s use of leather still needs refinement, the overall fabric choices were beautiful. The collection incorporated summer wool woven with washi yarn, silk wool satin that shimmered under light, and T-shirts enhanced with kago-zome, a basket dyeing technique that created dappled shadows, particularly striking on an asymmetric T-shirt dress.
This season marked Irenisa’s foray into womenswear, a natural progression considering their existing female customer base for menswear. The womenswear pieces, including a striped wrap skirt with three ties up the side of the thigh and a sleeveless black dress with pockets that pulled the fabric tight across the crotch, showcased the brand’s signature blend of subtle weirdness and unexpected sexiness.
Irenisa excels in these moments of unexpectedness, and it would be fascinating to see the duo push this further. With their unique and daring designs, Irenisa encourages individuals to embrace their own sense of individuality and let their ‘freak flag fly.’
