The Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2025 collection, unveiled on the morning of September 27th (local time), was a testament to meticulous attention to detail. The show venue, a pavilion overlooking a park, was just a short walk from the Loewe show, and the expansive green views perfectly complemented the collection’s theme. The round stools provided for the audience were crafted from cylindrical paper, a by-product of the maison’s signature pleating technique and designed for recyclability. These stools served as an introduction to a collection that explored the beauty of paper through clothing.
The show commenced with a translucent opening look, its soft, draping curves mimicking the glistening sheen of wet paper. The sound of dripping water accompanied the model as she gracefully glided down the runway. This was followed by six looks composed of linen paper and silk rayon blended with stretch yarn, rendered in a palette of white and black. Designer Satoshi Kondo, drawing inspiration from traditional Japanese washi paper, crafted fabrics that lent a distinct textural dimension to the garments, resulting in fluid and sculpted silhouettes.
Linen-blend knits were rhythmically interwoven within the varied tonalities and textures of the collection. In contrast, the sturdily woven linen material found its purpose in tailoring, accentuating the sharpness of the silhouettes. Single-layered pleated dresses were draped upon the models’ bodies, some of whom twirled and stretched the fabric, showcasing its remarkable elasticity and flexibility.
Subtle paper-related details punctuated the collection. A look adorned with paper clips and bags crafted from paper with woven threads served as poignant examples. Before the introduction of eye wear, hats, and masks incorporating pressed leaves and flowers, the runway was graced by a series of captivating looks featuring silk with crinkled textures and pressed flower prints. This fusion of delicate artistry and impactful design left a profound mark on the audience, leaving them deeply touched by the collection’s message.
