Donghui Wei, the creative force behind Jacques Wei, chuckled as he recounted a buyer’s question at his showroom: “One of the buyers the other day asked me if I was still doing ‘all of this fancy shit.’” His laughter echoed through the space, bouncing off the walls adorned with his latest creations. Indeed, Wei’s designs are anything but ordinary. They are a symphony of luxury, boasting sumptuous silks, lush feathers, supple leathers, and an abundance of embellishments. Crystals, mirror paillettes, tiger’s eye beads, and sequins shimmer and gleam, their presence unmistakable. But the extravagance doesn’t stop there. Wei’s fascination with tiny animal sculptures, discovered at flea markets and antique shops, finds its way into the collection, adorning belts and necklaces alongside golden and silver creature jewelry and brooches. “I mean, it’s my thing, it’s what I do!” he exclaimed, his laughter echoing once again.
Wei is a familiar and highly anticipated name at Shanghai Fashion Week. His designs, a captivating blend of opulent grandeur and artistic esotericism, have become synonymous with the brand’s distinct aesthetic. While his work could easily be perceived as pretentious, Wei’s genuine enjoyment and evident passion for the finer things in life dispel any such notions. “There’s no story this season,” he declared about the new collection. “I’m tired of making up stories; it feels like I’m doing homework season after season. I just wanted to make the things I like. I wanted glamour.”
There may not be a meticulously crafted narrative, but the depth of Wei’s creativity is undeniable. Layers of the bounciest feathers transform into a tank top and a skirt so spectacular it can only be described as “major.” Lace in delicate pastel hues is bonded onto pleated knit skirts and tank tops, accented by leather trims. Printed and plain jerseys and silks are draped into jaunty skirts that seem to fold into themselves endlessly. A sheer sheath, shimmering with mirror paillettes, is worn under a blazer adorned with a medley of tiger’s eye beads and crystal embellishments.
The allure of Wei’s clothes lies in their striking balance. Despite the abundance of ornamentation, they remain remarkably uncomplicated and unrestrictive. “They’re two boys, but they understand women,” observed a buyer at the showroom, acknowledging the unique synergy between Wei and his partner and co-founder, Austin Feng, who styles the collection.
This season in Shanghai, there’s a clear yearning for dressiness. Even the most avant-garde and youthful designers are embracing the embellished tailoring and “fancy” elements that have defined Wei’s work from the start. The pinnacle of his new collection is a one-of-a-kind satin tank, featuring metallic and 14-karat gold accents, created in collaboration with a jeweler. This exquisite piece serves as a captivating prelude to a forthcoming jewelry line, embodying the very essence of Jacques Wei.
“Hanging in the showroom spread out, it’s just clothes,” Wei mused, “but you see it all together, it’s just fucking fabulous, you know?” It’s impossible to disagree. Wei’s collection isn’t simply a showcase of clothing; it’s an unapologetic celebration of glamour, a testament to the enduring power of luxury, and a compelling reminder that sometimes, the most captivating stories are told without a single word.
