Jil Sander’s latest collection, presented by creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier, is a stark departure from the more delicate, feminine aesthetic that defined the brand’s previous seasons. The Meiers describe the collection as a response to the current world environment, a reflection of the challenging times we live in. This approach is evident in the collection’s overall vibe – a sense of strength and resilience, a feeling that only the strong will survive.
This season, the Meiers found inspiration in the works of Canadian photographer Greg Girard, whose images of 20th-century cars and motel rooms served as a starting point for the collection’s key pieces. These images were printed on clothing, lending a sense of gritty realism to the collection. Girard’s evocative neon-lit nighttime photos also informed the collection’s color palette, with iridescent suiting for men and women, and a striking brake-light red trench coat, adding a touch of vibrant intensity.
The tailoring in the collection is sharp and structured, with echoes of the 1940s and 1980s fashion eras, characterized by dramatic proportions. This is particularly evident in the double-pleated, loose-fitting pants, which create a sense of power without feeling overly retro. However, amidst the darkness, the Meiers also inject a dose of light and softness into the collection. There are glimpses of pastel hues in a delicate midi-dress and a series of rib-knit separates, adding a touch of femininity to the overall aesthetic. The Meiers haven’t abandoned their love for handcrafted details either, evident in the tops featuring intricate crochet panels and three-dimensional floral embroidery.
The collection culminates in a powerful statement: a glossy black raincoat printed with a bouquet of flowers. It’s a symbol of the duality that permeates the collection, showcasing the strength and vulnerability that define us as human beings. The message is clear: we can be strong, but we are also soulful, and the Meiers’ latest collection celebrates this delicate balance.
