It’s a known fact that many fashion designs never make it to retail shelves. They exist solely as samples for magazine shoots and VIP events, never becoming commercially available. Johanna Parv, an Estonian designer, is not confined by the creative bubble of the runway. Her 2020 Central Saint Martins MA collection drew inspiration from the women she saw cycling through London. These women juggled backpacks, tote bags crammed with gym gear, navigated heels in the office and flats for daily commutes, dressing for practicality and polish in their nine-to-five lives.
Parv’s spring/summer 2025 show showcased her understanding of these needs. A glimpse at the group of women on bikes who attended her pre-show party revealed a clear preference for functional and performance-driven pieces, like breathable parachute pants and her signature Action bag. This bag, a vintage-inspired design, fastens hands-free to the body with buckles, embodying the practical yet stylish aesthetic Parv strives for.
“For me, living in London is like trail running,” Parv shares, reflecting on the city’s demands. The daughter of an engineer and a former middle-distance runner herself, her designs inherently consider the needs of those navigating the urban jungle. Her debut show, following two successful seasons with the talent incubator Fashion East, marked a pivotal moment. Parv refined her focus on city tailoring, creating minimalist summer suits in natural fibers like wool and linen, emphasizing “movement and breathability.”
Her techno-linen, used for a sleek white blazer and miniskirt, features a water-repellent finish and ventilating zips. The wool nylon ripstop, seen on cream blazers and short skirts layered over trousers, boasts an ergonomic design, creating a “sleek outer shell” with hidden details. Skin-tight vests boast back pockets for lightweight coats, while zip-up tops are accented with silicone dots that grip onto backpack and handbag straps. “They’re my take on a graphic pattern, but they have a function,” Parv explains.
Parv’s show aimed to highlight the subtle technical details that elevate everyday clothing. The runway show featured a soundscape designed by DJ Mimi Xu, incorporating looped sounds of bikes, breathing, and traffic. Models, choreographed by Will Pegna, executed subtle movements, adjusting bag straps or unzipping sleeves. With bare faces, their skin looked natural and healthy, sculpted with products from FaceGym. “I want to reflect the beauty of normal gestures, like tucking your hand into a pocket,” she explains. “I want to show the symbiosis between the woman, the garments she wears and being on the go.”
For spring/summer 2025, Parv has expanded her accessory offerings. The multi-strap Action bag is joined by a new flat leather bag design worn around the neck. This large, unisex shopper was inspired by female cyclists who wore fabric tote bags around their shoulders like makeshift backpacks. Its triangular shape echoes the thumb and heel holes Parv cuts into her garments, incorporating the signature silicone dot detailing.
As the show began, the audience heard, “I’m jumping on my bike now,” a phrase from the opening soundtrack that blended travel-inspired Estonian and English phrases. Parv’s clothing embodies this sentiment, allowing women to seamlessly transition from the city streets to their active lifestyles. Her designs are a testament to the power of merging practicality with style, celebrating the modern, on-the-go woman.
