It’s no secret that many of the stunning outfits showcased at fashion weeks like London Fashion Week often remain just that – runway dreams. They exist solely as samples for magazine shoots and VIP dressing, never intended for mass production or retail. However, Johanna Parv, an Estonian designer based in London, isn’t confined to the glamorous bubble of the catwalk. Her 2020 Central Saint Martins MA collection was a direct response to the everyday lives of London’s female commuters – women juggling work, fitness, and the city’s relentless pace.
Parv’s inspiration stems from the women she sees navigating London’s streets, cycling with backpacks and tote bags, transitioning from heels to flats, and effortlessly balancing practicality with a touch of polished style. Her designs, like her signature Action bag, a vintage-inspired piece that fastens hands-free with buckles, reflect this need for functional yet stylish pieces.
Parv, the daughter of an engineer and a former middle-distance runner, understands the demands of navigating city life – the pavement, the Tube, and the need for comfort during a quick lunch break in a park. For her debut show at London Fashion Week, after two successful seasons with the talent incubator Fashion East, Parv honed in on city tailoring. Her goal was to create minimalist summer suiting in natural fibers like wool and linen, prioritizing movement and breathability – a crucial aspect for those enduring London’s August heat.
Her techno-linen, crafted into sleek white blazers and miniskirts, features a water-repellent finish and ventilating zips. The wool nylon ripstop, seen on cream blazers and short skirts paired with trousers, is designed for maximum comfort and functionality, offering a sleek outer shell with concealed details. Skin-tight vests with back pockets allow for storage of a lightweight coat, while zip-up tops are accented with silicone dots at the shoulders for secure attachment to backpack and handbag straps. These dots are not just a stylish detail; they serve a function, ensuring the garment stays in place during movement.
Parv’s debut show was a celebration of these subtle yet significant technical details that elevate clothing for everyday wear. The show’s soundscape, designed by DJ Mimi Xu, featured opening looped sounds of bikes, breathing, and traffic, creating an atmosphere of urban life. Models choreographed by Will Pegna showcased these details through small movements on the runway – adjusting bag straps, unzipping sleeves. The models appeared makeup-free, their skin reflecting the elements, and their faces sculpted with FaceGym tools, highlighting the natural beauty of the modern woman.
Parv emphasizes, “I want to reflect the beauty of normal gestures, like tucking your hand into a pocket. I want to show the symbiosis between the woman, the garments she wears, and being on the go.” For spring/summer 2025, Parv’s dedication to on-the-go dressing is evident in a new accessory that joins her popular Action bag – a flat leather bag design worn slung around the neck. This large unisex shopper was inspired by female cyclists using fabric tote bags as makeshift backpacks. Its triangular shape echoes the thumb and heel holes Parv incorporates into her garments, and features her signature silicone dot detailing.
As the opening soundtrack of the show played, featuring travel-inspired phrases in Estonian and English, the audience heard, “I’m jumping on my bike now.” Parv’s collection embodies this spirit of movement and freedom, allowing women to navigate the city, whether on foot, by bike, or on the Tube, with style and practicality. This collection is a testament to the modern woman, embracing her active lifestyle and the demands of everyday life with grace and confidence.
