On a dreary, rain-soaked evening, the Maison of John Galliano buzzed with anticipation. Hundreds of eager fans awaited their idols, braving the torrential downpour and slippery steps leading to the Seine-side building. Inside, the ambiance was reminiscent of a seedy 1930s nightclub, with run-down floorboards and arches of stone.
Amidst the crowd of celebrities and fashionistas, Lila Grace Moss, Tish Weinstock, and Francesca Hayward exuded elegance in their ethereal attire. The air crackled with electricity as the show began, with a tale of the sea projected on screens and a handsome crooner emerging from the zigzag pathway.
The models sashayed down the runway in breathtaking creations that showcased John Galliano’s exquisite artistry. Men sported tightly corseted suits with basting stitches, while women flaunted Vionnet-inspired skirts that accentuated their curves and cinched their waists. Each piece was a testament to Galliano’s mastery of pattern-cutting and the influence of his early design heroes.
Galliano’s journey to fashion stardom began with a collection of drawings that impressed his tutor at Saint Martins. Lacking advanced pattern-cutting skills, he rallied a talented team to bring his dream to life. His inaugural show in 1984 was a groundbreaking moment, featuring incroyables with rolled-up coats and tea-stained organza shirts.
Joan Burstein, owner of the iconic boutique Browns, recognized Galliano’s brilliance and ordered the entire collection. Barbra Streisand and Diana Ross became his first clients. In subsequent presentations, Galliano explored historical themes, from Afghanistan Repudiates Western Ideals to The Ludic Game.
After relocating to Paris, Galliano faced financial setbacks, but his creativity remained unyielding. With the support of André Leon Talley and friends, he staged a triumphant show in an exquisite Left Bank palace. The 18 looks, crafted from a single fabric, stunned the audience.
Galliano’s subsequent collections displayed his versatility, from ’50s suits to dramatic opera coats. His latest offering for Maison Margiela captured the essence of his early work, with its focus on corsetry, curves, and exquisite embroidery. The models, including Gwendoline Christie, looked ethereal in their creations, their bodies and clothes perfectly aligned.
John Galliano’s return to his roots was a testament to his enduring talent and the enduring power of fashion to captivate and inspire.
