Khaite’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection at New York Fashion Week was a testament to designer Catherine Holstein’s evolving vision. While the show attracted a predominantly female audience, reflecting Holstein’s ability to define the aspirations of affluent style-conscious women, it also signaled a departure from her signature edgy aesthetic.
Holstein described the collection’s inspiration as a newfound warmth and earthiness, a shift perhaps influenced by the arrival of her son. This shift was subtly apparent from the outset, with the opening look featuring a cropped tailored black jacket paired with sheer organza trousers, a nod to Holstein’s signature oversized outerwear. However, it quickly became clear that she was embracing new creative territories.
The collection featured a range of unexpected textures and silhouettes, including hand-knit ribbon peplum tops and midi skirts, crocheted separates like an apron shirt and a narrow skirt worn over pants, and airy organza tubes transformed into everything from delicate tops to statement dresses.
Holstein candidly acknowledged her comfort zone, admitting that she enjoyed venturing into unfamiliar territory. While some experiments, like the voluminous organza poncho dress, may have felt overwhelming, the collection ultimately offered a wealth of inspiration for her loyal clientele.
Key takeaways included the elegance of a white sleeveless shift paired with champagne hammered silk trousers and the unexpected pop of glossy red shoes, as well as the timeless appeal of a leather blouson jacket. Notably, a black leather dress with a built-in white strapless sweetheart neckline corset showcased Holstein’s commitment to comfort and function. “Everything is about comfort and function for us,” she emphasized.
By prioritizing comfort without sacrificing style, Holstein has once again demonstrated her keen understanding of the evolving needs and desires of modern women. This shift towards a softer, more comfortable aesthetic, while still rooted in Khaite’s signature edgy elegance, is a testament to Holstein’s adaptability and her ability to remain relevant within the ever-changing landscape of fashion.
