Dive into the captivating world of Apple TV+’s new French-language series, La Maison, where fashion is more than just a beautiful facade. It’s a business, a battlefield, and a canvas for revealing truths. The show follows the tumultuous journey of a renowned fashion designer, Vincent Ledu, as he navigates the consequences of a racist rant that goes viral.
Behind the scenes, costume designer Carine Sarfati masterfully orchestrates the sartorial landscape of this high-stakes world. She not only outfits a cast of captivating characters, but also brings to life the fictional fashion houses at the heart of the story. To achieve this, Sarfati draws inspiration from iconic figures, carefully curating each character’s wardrobe to reflect their personalities and motivations.
For Vincent Ledu, played by Lambert Wilson, Sarfati evokes a minimalist aesthetic reminiscent of Steve Jobs, Giorgio Armani, and Norman Foster. She envisions his wardrobe as a uniform, a black and minimal silhouette that becomes his visual signature. This choice reflects the power and control he seeks to maintain, even as his world begins to crumble around him.
Meanwhile, Amira Casar’s Perle Foster, the muse of Ledu, embodies a Parisian elegance and a subtle defiance. Her looks draw inspiration from the muses of renowned artists and fashion icons like Farida Khelfa. Sarfati carefully selects pieces from labels like Alaïa, Comme des Garçons, and Junya Watanabe, reflecting Perle’s sophisticated and evolving persona.
Diane Rovel, the formidable CEO played by Carole Bouquet, exudes power and authority through her wardrobe. Her sharp pantsuits in vibrant colors and luxurious accessories signal her place at the top of the fashion world. Sarfati draws inspiration from strong women like Liliane Bettencourt and Andrée Putman, highlighting Diane’s relentless ambition and unwavering determination.
Zita Hanrot’s Paloma Castel represents a fresh wave of conscious and innovative designers. Her wardrobe reflects a playful mix of vintage and contemporary styles, a reflection of her generation’s approach to fashion. Sarfati draws inspiration from emerging talents like Clara Daguin and Marine Serre, embodying Paloma’s individuality and her commitment to sustainable practices.
Beyond individual characters, Sarfati also meticulously crafts the runway collections for the fictional fashion houses. The retrospective collection for Ledu showcases the house’s savoir-faire and its intricate craftsmanship, while the bold Doppel collection by Paloma challenges the industry’s wasteful practices, promoting sustainability and a more conscious approach to fashion.
Through her meticulous work, Sarfati elevates La Maison to a new level of authenticity. The costumes and runway collections not only visually stunning but also serve as powerful storytelling tools, bringing to life the characters’ ambitions, struggles, and ultimately, their humanity.
