The Damier pattern, a Louis Vuitton hallmark first conceived in 1888, predates the iconic Monogram, designed by Georges Vuitton in tribute to his father in 1896. But what happens when this enduring classic is reimagined as a jewelry line? Francesca Amfitheatrof, the Artistic Director of Watches and Jewelry, took on this audacious project, crafting a collection of 12 rings, necklaces, bracelets, and earrings that reinterprets the Damier in precious metals and diamonds. “It’s a pattern that transcends generations and genders,” she enthusiastically shared.
The inspiration for this collection can be traced back to a pivotal moment in jewelry history. In 1978, the diamond rivière worn by tennis player Chris Evert slipped from her wrist during the US Open, halting the match until the piece was recovered. This incident gave birth to the “tennis bracelet” as we know it today. Amfitheatrof, known for pushing the boundaries of traditional jewelry design, decided to reimagine this iconic piece. “I wanted to reinterpret the movement of the classic tennis bracelet and create pieces that were modern, continuous, and fluid with the skin,” she explained.
Thus, the Damier Tennis Bracelet was born, showcasing two rows of dazzling diamonds set in both yellow and white gold. Its exquisite craftsmanship is no surprise, but the true allure lies in its fluidity – a liquid grace rarely associated with metal. Designed to seamlessly hug the wrist, it feels like a second skin. This is a tennis bracelet, but not as we’ve known it before.
“We took this delicate classic piece and transformed it into a modern, everyday, genderless, ageless jewel, always moving, always on the wrist, with a touch of originality. It’s jewelry you never want to take off,” explained Amfitheatrof. This 24/7 philosophy – from the continuity of the design to how the pieces are worn – is echoed throughout the entire Damier collection.
The rings, highly polished pieces destined to become the new eternity bands, come in two distinct styles: one with two rows of diamonds, the other, more graphic, boasting four. The round pendant, also set with diamonds, is mounted on a delicate yellow gold chain, and the earrings, seemingly simple yellow gold hoops, are set with diamonds in a style referencing the characteristic geometry of the pattern.
While this is a diamond collection, it’s not just about the stones, the creative director explained: “It’s actually about the pattern they create. If Louis Vuitton were alive today, I think he’d be extremely proud of how his 1888 creation has been transformed into gold and diamond jewelry. The continuity of the House’s Damier pattern is now on your skin. It’s a modern classic for today that can stay with you forever.”
However, while Amfitheatrof is clear about the Damier collection’s pieces being future heirlooms – the quality of the craftsmanship attests to this – the sartorial approach shouldn’t be as precious or limited. “These pieces are sensual but relaxed. And they suit everyone. How to wear them? “Stacked, stacked, stacked! I love the bracelets. They are so fluid and sensual and feel good on the skin, so they are perfect for stacking and mixing different gold colors and sizes.”
It’s a contemporary and inclusive approach that brings a breath of fresh air to a world (that of jewelry) often stifled by tradition. For Amfitheatrof, it’s about looking back to move forward. “The Damier by Louis Vuitton is the creation of a new era. It’s a modern collection, yes, but it’s designed to last eternally.”
Originally published on Vogue UK. Translated by Jessica Scemama.
