Imagine taking Louis Vuitton’s iconic checkerboard pattern, the Damier, born in 1888, and transforming it into a contemporary collection of fine jewellery. That’s exactly what Francesca Amfitheatrof, the maison’s artistic director for watches and jewellery, has achieved with Le Damier de Louis Vuitton. This captivating 12-piece collection, featuring rings, necklaces, bracelets and earrings, reinterprets the geometric Damier pattern in precious metals and stones, creating a truly modern and versatile collection.
Amfitheatrof, renowned for pushing the boundaries of traditional jewellery design, explains, “It transcends generations and genders. Le Damier de Louis Vuitton embodies what modern jewellery should be.” This collection, inspired by a defining moment in jewellery history, pays homage to the origin of the iconic tennis bracelet. In 1978, tennis player Chris Evert’s single-line diamond bracelet slipped off her wrist during the US Open, bringing the match to a halt until the jewellery was found. This incident gave birth to the tennis bracelet as we know it today.
Amfitheatrof, known for her revolutionary approach to fine jewellery, decided to reimagine this classic piece, saying, “I wanted to reimagine the movement of the classic tennis bracelet and create modern, continuous pieces that are fluid with the skin.” Thus, the Le Damier tennis bracelet was born. This exquisite piece features two sparkling rows of diamonds set in both yellow and white gold, creating a sense of liquid suppleness rarely seen in metal. The bracelet is designed to mould perfectly around the wrist, feeling like a second skin. It’s the tennis bracelet, but redefined.
The designer explains, “We have taken this dainty classic piece and turned it into an ‘always in motion, always on your wrist’ modern, everyday, genderless, ageless piece of jewellery with an edge. These are pieces that you never want to take off. Even when you’re naked!” This 24/7 ethos, from the continuity of the design to the way the pieces are worn, permeates the entire Damier collection. The rings, highly polished and destined to become coveted eternity bands, come in two styles: one with two rows of diamonds and another with a more graphic four-row design. The single round pendant, also studded with diamonds, hangs elegantly from a slim yellow gold chain, while the earrings, seemingly simple yellow gold hoops, are adorned with diamonds in a style that echoes the fashion house’s signature geometry.
While Le Damier is a diamond collection, Amfitheatrof emphasizes that “it’s not just about the stones. It is really about the pattern they create.” She believes that Louis Vuitton, if he were alive today, would be immensely proud of how his 1888 creation has been transformed into gold and diamond jewellery. The continuity of the maison’s Damier pattern now graces the skin, creating a modern classic for today that can last a lifetime.
Despite the exquisite craftsmanship that speaks to the heirloom quality of Le Damier, Amfitheatrof emphasizes that the collection should be embraced for its sartorial versatility. “These pieces are sensual but casual. And they are for everyone.” When asked about styling, she instantly suggests, “Stack, stack, stack! I love the bracelets. They are so slinky and sensual and feel great on your skin, so they are great for stacking and mixing the different coloured golds and different sizes.” This contemporary and inclusive approach breathes fresh air into a fine jewellery world often constrained by tradition. For Amfitheatrof, it’s about looking back to look forward. “Le Damier de Louis Vuitton is the creation of a new era. It’s a modern collection, yes, but it’s designed to last forever.”
