The Paris fashion scene is a whirlwind of change, with each designer and show offering a distinct mood. After witnessing the maximalist spectacle of Alessandro Michele’s debut for Valentino, stepping into Margaret Howell’s showroom felt like entering a calm oasis. There, Howell and her design directors, Rosamund Ward (women’s wear) and Ioannis Cholidis (men’s wear), presented a collection that exuded effortless elegance and timeless appeal.
The collection featured a captivating mix of linen button-back dresses, belted raincoats, slouchy trousers, layered shirts in new elongated cuts, relaxed jackets, wide shorts, and sweaters with a subtly looser, shorter fit. This palette of classic browns, blacks, grays, chalky white, and soft greens felt both familiar and reinvigorated, as if each color had been reimagined to uncover previously unseen shades. (The pale blue-gray, I learned, was achieved through a surprising turnip dyeing process!). These versatile hues were applied to a range of luxurious fabrics, including linen, Swiss cotton, denim, cotton drill, cashmere, and crisp wool.
What truly sets Howell’s work apart, however, is the way she seamlessly blends the past with the present. While other designers might strive for constant reinvention, often discarding the past in their pursuit of the new, Howell embraces a more cyclical approach. She expertly rediscovers elements from her own archive or from bygone eras, infusing them with a contemporary perspective that resonates with the realities of modern dressing.
This masterful understanding of time is evident in the collection’s details. A dress originally designed by Howell in the 1990s was revisited, featuring fewer buttons down the back. Another dress, a personal favorite of Howell’s from a decade ago, was reintroduced into the collection, proving its enduring appeal. Even a bomber jacket from the 1980s, originally designed by Cholidis, was brought back to life, showcasing the power of timeless design.
To further highlight this harmonious blend of past, present, and future, Howell has incorporated her ongoing collaboration with Japanese sportswear brand Mizuno into the collection. A zip-front vest and an anorak from the collaboration seamlessly blend into the overall aesthetic, demonstrating how Howell’s designs can transcend time and style boundaries.
Margaret Howell’s collections are a testament to her unwavering commitment to timeless style. She understands that true elegance lies not in relentless reinvention, but in the art of finding harmony between the past and the present. Her designs are a testament to her discerning eye, her mastery of craft, and her ability to create pieces that transcend trends and stand the test of time.
