Maria Turri, a designer based in Verona, Italy, doesn’t seem particularly interested in what’s commonly considered ‘business.’ Her ideal is to create clothes by hand and then present them in a small bag to a few select shops—a vision that feels almost anachronistic in today’s fast-paced fashion world. Instead, she chose to unveil her latest collection near the Picasso Museum in Paris. This choice felt almost fated as Turri, with her effortlessly tousled black hair, resembled a modern-day interpretation of Picasso’s 1900 portrait of his sister, Lola.
I first met Turri in 2018 when she was awarded the “Who Is on Next?” prize by Italian Vogue. I was a member of the judging panel for this initiative that spotlights emerging designers upholding the tradition of “Made in Italy.” Fast forward six years, and Turri has become a mother and expanded her label to include menswear. Her Spring/Summer 2025 collection features numerous looks with intricate back designs, from cascading fabric panels to twisted straps that hold up open-back dresses. One garment, adorned with lace-up details, requires assistance to fasten its intricate knots, adding depth and complexity to the design.
Turri’s signature loose, drop-waist dresses are present, their unexpectedness highlighted by strategically placed pleats. Her tailoring offerings include a single-button long jacket, drop-crotch pants, and work jackets. A standout piece is a jacket crafted from 100-year-old linen fabric, boasting an 18th-century silhouette.
As in 2018, Turri continues to illuminate the true meaning of “Made in Italy.” Her approach is artisanal, blending machine and hand-stitching, but the final product is never “perfect.” This reflects her aesthetic and values, and her husband, who also serves as her translator, explains it best: “She’s not doing this to grow a brand, she’s doing it to express her creativity, and it’s not connected to what the market is demanding. It’s a small collection, and Maria doesn’t want to wholesale it to many stores to keep it personal, and also to build a relationship with customers. A few stores are enough. For her, the most important thing is that the customers can savor each design, enjoy it, and feel happiness.”
Text: Laird Borrelli-Persson Adaptation: Motoko Fujita From VOGUE.COM READ MORE
