The anticipation was palpable as guests gathered at the Terminus Nord restaurant in Paris, just a stone’s throw from Gare du Nord, for the unveiling of Marie Adam-Leenaerdt’s Spring-Summer 2025 collection. The setting, familiar to many Belgians as the departure point for the Thalys train back home, added a personal touch to the event. The air crackled with excitement as the first silhouettes emerged on the runway, showcasing the Belgian designer’s audacious vision for the season.
Adam-Leenaerdt, a finalist in the LVMH Prize 2024, chose to focus on the most ubiquitous piece in our wardrobes: the tee. But this wasn’t a simple celebration of the classic garment. Instead, she deconstructed and reimagined its familiar form, drawing inspiration from her time working with Demna at Balenciaga. Known for his subversive and trend-defying approach to fashion, Demna’s influence is evident in Adam-Leenaerdt’s bold experimentation.
She took the humble tee and the jersey fabric it’s typically made from and elevated them to new heights. The collection presented a series of unexpected yet impeccably crafted pieces, each pushing the boundaries of traditional fashion. A standout piece was a dress with surprising proportions that managed to maintain a sense of effortless comfort. Other highlights included trompe-l’oeil dresses, blazer jackets that hugged the body, a silky slip skirt, and a cardigan worn inside-out.
With each new collection, Marie Adam-Leenaerdt aims to surprise and challenge expectations, and this one is no exception. Her playful yet sophisticated approach to design, coupled with her keen understanding of both comfort and style, makes her a rising star in the world of fashion. The Spring-Summer 2025 collection is a testament to her talent and her unique ability to make the everyday extraordinary.
