It all started with an Instagram message. Model and cover star casually slid into ‘s DMs to declare her intentions of one day walking his Marni show. Her first appearance in the designer’s universe came with the digital release of his . The Covid-time lineup, as Risso explained it to Vogue Runway then, was about the people in it. Making the most of pandemic travel restrictions, he sent the clothes to his cast members, Elsesser included, and they, in turn, breathed life into the clothes. The operating word, and feeling, was connection.
The model has since become a mainstay on Risso’s runways, but today they’re take their friendship to the next level with a capsule collection for Marni Jam—the brand’s “multidisciplinary program for creative exchanges”—co-created by Risso and Elsesser and the Los Angeles-based artist .
The result of this creative menage is a summer-ready lineup that rips a page out of Elsesser’s own sartorial playbook. There’s the the knit tops and bralettes she often wears paired with draped skirts and oversized butto- downs, a playful handbag inspired by her signature hoop earrings, and a bodycon dress flared at the shins that toes the line between casual and dressed-up, a vibe the model has mastered. There’s also an abundance of Risso-isms, from eccentric knitted details on blazers to funky trousers and lots of colorful, graphic stripes.
Elsesser, who has already released a earlier this year, has made it her mission to get fashion to look at size-inclusivity with nuance and consideration. This time around she’s worked with Marni to expand its sizing range to an EU 56 (US around a 40-42 in US).
Elsesser and Risso joined to chat about their meeting of the minds and how their emotional connection to each other materialized into this fun summer wardrobe.
Franceso Risso:
I don’t even remember. I think we met like 600 years ago.Paloma Elsesser:
I remember we were friends on Instagram first, and I have actually never done this before, but I messaged you saying I would love to do your show.FR:
Oh my God, yes. I don’t remember this because at this point you are part of my blood and our [Marni] blood and I think I removed that part. But I always remember one of the first times we did a show together. We had done some before [the spring 2021 video], but I remember the one where my house was taken over. I remember we were laying on the couch and it was the first time we could actually each other. We had such a beautiful time. We also just had so many friends in common that it was easy to merge together.FR:
It’s always been a dream to work with Paloma because the way we do things that Marni is with a shared opinion, I would say. So collections kind of build up and people merge into our world, and it got to a point in which I wanted to get deeper than that. Paloma was on top of the list because she is one of our most leading characters, but also a protester. She is an incredibly courageous woman. She embodies her body in the most beautiful way, and to me it’s all so inspiring. I wanted to learn from P, as I always do.PE:
When it was presented to me, I was like, Sometimes there can be a heaviness to our industry, and I always look to the family-ship and the humanity of the Marni family as a silver lining. I don’t care if I don’t do any other show. If I only do Marni the rest of my life, I’m happy.FR:
It’s true, you say that to me every time, and I really appreciate that.PE:
It really does embody all of the shared values and qualities. Something that I love so much about you is that both of us are agitators. We are free.FR:
My obsession is Paloma’s every day. How she beautifully puts things together. When you see her on the street you’re like . There is nothing classic about Paloma and I love that.PE:
Obviously I don’t have as much experience [in design], but there was a lot of trust in knowing how Francesco and the amazing Marni team work and synthesize both a fantasy and a reality that feels really accessible for people. This is a really exciting moment for Marni and myself, also because we’re getting into different sizing and access for people to experience the pleasure and joy of the clothes. I think that especially came through in it being a summer-focused collection. It feels like a reflection of joy and an emphasis on freedom and expression.You look at the Marni muses that Francesco brings in and their humanity is infused into the design, and that’s so cool. He notices me and what I wear. I’m always wearing hoops, so he made a hoop bag here. It all feels very . There’s something beautiful about things being very real in the world.
