In an exclusive sit-down with Vogue Philippines, Mary Katrantzou, the newly appointed creative director for leather goods and accessories at Bulgari, delves into the inspiration behind her debut collection, the Calla. With a passionate energy, she declares, “I said guys, look no further! It’s a pattern that is already in our world. It’s already Bulgari, we just need to take it and allow it to grow.”
Katrantzou’s journey to the Calla began with an exploration of the Divas’ Dream collection. While researching its inspiration, she stumbled upon a photograph of Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin standing at the Thermal Baths of Caracalla, gazing upon the mosaic floor. It was a pivotal moment. The mosaic, a testament to Bulgari’s commitment to preserving Roman and Italian history, became the muse for the Calla collection. Katrantzou recognized the pattern’s presence within the Bulgari universe, stating, “It’s already part of the Bulgari universe. It connects with our Roman roots in a very authentic way. It also connects to Diva’s Dream, which is an icon-to-be, on its way to becoming a Bulgari icon.”
With this revelation, Katrantzou saw an opportunity to weave a tapestry of heritage and contemporary design. The Calla collection is a celebration of the intricate patterns found in the mosaics of the Terme di Caracalla, reinterpreted through a modern lens. “There’s so much you can do once you establish a pattern that people see as an identity,” she explains. The collection embodies this principle, showcasing the Calla pattern in various forms and materials. From the quilted nappa leather of the “Serpenti Sugarloaf” to the bejeweled Gingko clutch, the Calla motif transforms seamlessly into different shapes and textures. This versatility reflects Bulgari’s ability to bridge the gap between function and adornment, exemplified by pieces like the “Serpenti Duo” – a dazzling clutch adorned with hand-set pave crystals – and the “Calla” evening clutch, crafted from intricate openwork gold metal.
The name “Calla” itself adds another layer of meaning to the collection, originating from the Greek word for “magnificent beauty.” It’s a fitting name for a collection that pays homage to the rich history and elegant design of Bulgari.
Katrantzou’s relationship with Bulgari goes beyond her recent appointment. As a Greek-born designer, she shares a common heritage with Bulgari founder Sotirio Bulgari. “I always loved Bulgari as a brand from as far back as I can remember. My first graduation gift from my father was a Bulgari watch. My first collection out of fashion was a collection based on oversized jewelry,” she reveals. This deep-rooted admiration led to collaborations with the brand, including the Spring 2020 couture show where her models wore exquisite Bulgari high jewelry. It was during this show that Katrantzou realized the deep connection between her own vision and the spirit of Bulgari, highlighting the “richness of the narrative and the symbolic meaning behind Bulgari pieces.”
The Calla collection is not just a testament to the brand’s heritage but also a reflection of the “Bulgari woman.” Katrantzou describes her as “a woman who’s very generous in spirit, and warm, and fearless, and bold and self-assured. She really knows who she is.” This confident and multifaceted woman embodies the vibrancy and elegance synonymous with Bulgari. It’s a spirit that transcends cultures, a testament to the power of good design and art. “It’s being appreciative of design, being generous with your time, with your family, the people you meet. I think it’s a certain quality of woman,” says Katrantzou. Ultimately, she believes that “we actually need to bring out the Bulgari in everyone.” The Calla collection is a step in that direction, a reminder that the spirit of Bulgari – a spirit of confidence, generosity, and timeless elegance – resides within us all.