Ian Griffith, creative director of Max Mara since 1987, is known for his creative process that often centers around strong female figures. For the Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Griffith chose Hypatia, a Greek mathematician and astronomer from Alexandria, as his inspiration. “Everyone says there’s no time to experiment anymore,” Griffith said backstage, “but that’s not true. We took a completely new approach with this collection.” This approach involved translating Hypatia’s theories on parabolas and the Pythagorean theorem into a design equation, creating a new perspective on Max Mara’s signature aesthetic.
The result is a collection that subtly blends mathematical precision with elegant design. One-shoulder knit dresses with a subtle parabolic curve along the ribcage, accented by cutouts at the waist, and a graceful gray knit dress with an equally stunning curve and waist cutouts demonstrate this fusion. This unique equation resulted in a collection of pieces that are both beautiful and mathematically intriguing.
Darts, elevated from simple seams to key details, accentuate the silhouettes of the garments while subtly tracing the lines of the wearer’s body. A gabardine work jacket meticulously designed with storm flaps that form isosceles triangles when closed, silk bottoms and jackets that play with the texture of fabric wrinkles create striking contrasts, all adding to the collection’s unique aesthetic.
The Spring/Summer 2025 collection, at first glance, seems like a typical Max Mara collection. Camel hues, cashmere, and tailored pieces are present, embodying the brand’s signature style. Every piece exudes absolute simplicity, devoid of any eccentricity. However, Griffith’s design expertise and confidence permeate every aspect of the collection, revealing a subtle yet powerful undercurrent of scientific inspiration. This collection, born out of a fascination with the intersection of science and design, showcases a fresh, unexpected perspective on Max Mara’s enduring legacy.
