Sean McArthur’s second show for McQueen opened with a twist on tailored suits, almost as if the collection was bracing itself for a storm—both the literal kind, so typical of England, and the figurative one that comes from the critical eye. The young designer is facing a daunting challenge, not only in leading the house but also in taking over from Sarah Burton, the right hand of the founder and the one who held the McQueen helm for over a decade. Starting under such challenging circumstances, McArthur’s debut show last season was held in a dilapidated warehouse on the outskirts of Paris, on a day when a cold rain fell. It’s no wonder it was met with scrutiny. This season, however, McArthur chose to start anew at the École des Beaux-Arts on the Left Bank, a place that has hosted countless fashion shows over the years. As far as I can recall, it had never seen a McQueen collection before. McArthur insists he had more time to prepare this time around, and the results are clear. The collection is more cohesive and commercially appealing.
McArthur started creating the collection by revisiting Lee McQueen’s archives. “His signature was the twisted S-shaped silhouette, so I wanted to reinterpret that. That’s how the roll-lapel looks came about,” he said. McArthur also revisited McQueen’s iconic super-low-rise “bumster” pants, adding a touch of whimsy to the silhouette with a mesh panel and frills under the waistband, creating a more delicate and less edgy interpretation. In the realm of casualwear, McArthur presented a cropped jacket and miniskirt set, made with military surplus fabrics, and a washed-cotton raincoat with a velvet collar, adding a touch of contrast.
McArthur draws inspiration from McQueen’s second collection, “Banshee,” but he also connects it to his own Irish roots, referencing Celtic traditions and the stories his mother told him about the banshee—a creature that foretells death. His reference to “The Birds,” which was a more aggressive collection, was the first time his design was displayed. “Banshee” has a darker, more romantic feel. This is evident in the black, long dress with thorn embroidery, similar to the look he designed for Lana Del Rey at this year’s Met Gala.
McArthur also placed a greater emphasis on evening wear than in his previous collection. McArthur is known for his expertise in tailoring over evening wear, but in today’s fashion landscape, where celebrities play a crucial role in brand revitalization, this skillset will prove invaluable. Among the guests was Daphne Guinness, who, after the passing of Isabella Blow, a former Vogue editor, bought a significant portion of McQueen’s collection. Guinness sported a lilac jumpsuit with silver embroidery and a white chiffon mini dress paired with a gold beaded and sequined jacket, but the look that truly captured the imagination was the final look, a silver chain-like design that traced the lines of the body. McArthur has undoubtedly made significant strides since his last collection.
