As I watched Milan Fashion Week unfold on my newsfeed, a sense of nostalgia washed over me. Back in 2016, I graduated wearing a pair of knock-off Prada brogues, a far cry from the real deal. This season, the designers seemed to be on a similar journey, embracing a sense of arrested development.
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons presented a collection that felt like a constant swipe through a TikTok feed: windbreakers layered over feather dresses, bikini bralettes paired with harnessed skirts, and trompe l’oeil fur coats worn with reflective miniskirts. The lack of a cohesive theme was the very point – a celebration of individuality in an increasingly homogenous online world.
Bottega Veneta’s Matthieu Blazy channeled a similar spirit, drawing inspiration from the childlike wonder of trying on your parents’ clothes for the first time. The collection featured comically oversized jackets, one-legged trousers, and pre-wrinkled fabrics, evoking a sense of playful experimentation.
Francesco Risso at Marni took a more cartoonish approach, decorating his models with sailor boy caps and exaggerated eyebrows. The entire collection was crafted solely from cotton, with cropped chemises worn like capelets and oversized tuxedos paired with siren skirts. The alien-eyed sunglasses, prevalent across several shows, seemed to reflect a shared sense of escapism and playfulness.
Donatella Versace, echoing this optimistic sentiment, drew inspiration from her former Versus line, showcasing zig-zag patterned knits and floral prints on silk and chainmail. She reminisced about the freedom and happiness of the 90s, a time when fashion wasn’t burdened with excessive thought.
Meanwhile, Max Mara’s collection took a more intellectual approach, inspired by the fourth-century mathematician and philosopher Hypatia. The collection featured long, lean silhouettes in a muted palette of browns and tans.
Dolce & Gabbana’s spring collection was a nostalgic throwback to the 1990s, with Madonna herself gracing the front row. The collection featured bullet bras, balconette dresses, satin tuxedos, and tubinos, evoking the iconic style of the Queen of Pop.
The past also provided inspiration for Ferragamo’s Maximilian Davis, who drew upon the 1950s dancer Katherine Dunham. His collection featured leggings, leotards, and ribboned pumps paired with double-wrapped tops, reminiscent of ballet cardigans.
Sabato de Sarno at Ferragamo looked to the jet-setting spirit of Jackie Onassis, conjuring up a sense of effortless elegance with printed seaside separates, archival headscarves, and a woven raffia coat in fluoro green.
Kim Jones, celebrating Fendi’s centennial, presented a collection that spanned 100 years of fashion history, from the drop-waist dresses of the 1920s to the commercial nirvana of the 1990s.
As the week came to a close, I couldn’t help but reflect on my own journey with fashion. Perhaps it’s time to rediscover those not-quite-Prada brogues of my past and embrace the whimsy and nostalgia that seems to be shaping the future of fashion.
