Alberto Caliri, a name synonymous with Missoni’s legacy, has officially been appointed the brand’s new creative director. His ascension follows Filippo Grazioli’s departure in October, marking a significant chapter in the Italian fashion house’s illustrious history. Caliri, a Missoni insider since 1998, brings a wealth of experience and intimate knowledge of the brand’s DNA. His journey began as a fabric designer, evolving into a key role as Angela Missoni’s right-hand man. A brief but impactful stint as interim creative director in 2021, where he designed two collections, further solidified his understanding of the brand’s aesthetic and market position.
This isn’t a case of a newcomer attempting to reinvent the wheel; Caliri’s deep-rooted connection to Missoni allows him to approach the brand’s heritage with an intuitive, rather than overly analytical, perspective. He hasn’t meticulously combed through archives with a reverential eye; instead, he draws upon his instinctive understanding of Missoni’s core strengths – the unparalleled artistry of knitwear and the brand’s signature color palettes.
A recent pre-fall collection preview revealed Caliri’s vision. His thorough (albeit slightly delayed) exploration of the Missoni archive unveiled a fascinating truth: the brand’s historical color palette was significantly richer and darker than its more recent iterations. Beyond the iconic zigzags, he rediscovered a treasure trove of stripes, tartans, and intricate jacquards, describing them as “rather complex” – a testament to the brand’s multifaceted heritage.
Caliri also noted a strong masculine influence, particularly in the brand’s women’s collections, as evidenced in the works of Ottavio Missoni. He observed a greater emphasis on structure and less layering – elements he aims to reintroduce, injecting a sense of lightness and what he termed ‘a collage of diverse possibilities.’ This approach is evident in the pre-fall collection’s broadened tailoring and outerwear ranges, showcasing the versatility of Missoni knitwear in suits, cocoon coats, and trench coats.
The evening wear is equally captivating, featuring sensual slip dresses in soft striped lurex that effortlessly skim the body, alongside pleated gowns designed for the effortless elegance of luxurious pajamas. This striking blend of practicality and artistic flair represents Caliri’s strategy to refresh Missoni’s signature style.
However, Caliri’s vision extends beyond simply honoring the past. He understands the need to attract younger audiences and expand the brand’s market reach. To achieve this, he recognizes the importance of injecting excitement and bold creative gestures to reinvigorate Missoni’s appeal and maintain its relevance in the ever-evolving world of fashion. His intimate understanding of the brand, coupled with his forward-thinking approach, positions Missoni for an exciting future under his creative direction.
