In these turbulent times, MM6 Maison Margiela’s Autumn-Winter collection emerges as a beacon of both reflection and escape. Stepping away from the dominant, oversized streetwear aesthetic, the brand delves into a pre-streetwear era, rediscovering the emotional resonance clothing once held. This isn’t about fleeting trends; it’s about a deeper connection to artistry, music, and personal memory – a sophisticated approach devoid of the need for trendy qualifiers.
The collection’s seemingly straightforward designs upon closer inspection reveal a wealth of subtle details. Sculptural jersey shifts bear the mark of the Stockman – that ever-present companion to designers – a nod to the foundational elements of garment construction. Oversized shoulders, a hallmark of the brand’s 1980s origins, return with a contemporary twist on a crisp white wool pea coat, imbued with an effortless coolness. A washed satin bomber jacket embodies a paradoxical blend of humble elegance and opulence, evoking the spirit of Sonic Youth while maintaining a high-fashion sensibility. The overdyeing process highlights the rich textures, elevating the garments to a new level.
Fur, both real and faux, plays a significant role, appearing as coats, linings, and even prints on jersey. This element subtly hints at a ‘Venus in Furs’ aesthetic, appealing to those familiar with the reference while remaining universally alluring. The collection showcases shearling pieces that need no explanation – their timeless appeal speaks for itself.
Archival elements are masterfully reimagined. An overdyed chocolate skirt injects minimalism with a new dimension, while loose-fitting popover dresses unveil a quiet drama. A Duchampian influence is evident in the ‘back-to-back’ trousers with welt pockets, inside-out suiting, and overdyed jacquard dresses that echo the elegance of prom dresses from yesteryear. Halter tops and skirts, inspired by 90s archival scarves, complete the tapestry of inspired reinterpretations. This collection encapsulates the very essence of the brand’s identity, drawing the core audience back for more.
The menswear offering provides a strong vocabulary – a practical sensibility devoid of extravagance. Shearling and leather jackets, denims, and coats are presented with masterful craftsmanship prioritised over spectacle. This is “ready-when-worn” design at its finest – refined and exceptionally strong. These are clothes designed for living, not simply for social media posts; enduring pieces meant for a lifetime of wear.
