Since taking the helm in 2018, creative director Casey Cadwallader has propelled Mugler back into the fashion spotlight, winning over a new generation. Cadwallader’s designs, known for their emphasis on body-conscious silhouettes and strategic use of transparency, have become more than just clothing – they’ve transformed into a spectacle, a bold fusion of fashion and culture. His runway shows are renowned for their frenetic energy, featuring international LGBTQIAP+ stars like American actress Dominique Jackson and Venezuelan singer Arca, alongside supermodels like Irina Shayk and Paloma Elsesser. This vibrant energy and dark sensuality have become recurring themes in recent seasons, almost like a winning formula for the brand.
However, for the Summer 2025 collection, presented in Paris on Thursday, Cadwallader took a different approach. Celebrating the house’s 50th anniversary, he delved into Mugler’s heritage, specifically the way founder Thierry Mugler blended nature and sci-fi elements. The result was a collection featuring impeccably crafted silhouettes and richly textured draping, exuding a surreal quality, as if plucked from dystopian films like *Star Wars* and *The Hunger Games*. The pieces felt more polished and “serious,” with a reduction in transparency and more concise strategic cuts. The intent was to unveil a new facet of Cadwallader’s work, but the lack of diverse body types and queer personalities on the runway and in the front row, a hallmark of the brand, was a noticeable absence.
While the collection showcased a refined aesthetic, the absence of this inclusivity, a core aspect of Mugler’s identity, left some wondering if the brand was taking a step away from its original values. This shift in direction raises intriguing questions about the future of Mugler under Cadwallader’s creative vision. Will it continue to champion the inclusivity and bold statements that made it iconic, or will it evolve into a more streamlined, less provocative brand?
