Time is an inherent theme in the work of N.Hoolywood’s Daisuke Obana, a designer whose past as a vintage dealer informs his constant dialogue with the past. This year, as Obana turns 50 and his brand marks its 25th anniversary, the designer is celebrating with a book release and an exhibition at the PARCO Museum in Tokyo.
For his Spring 2025 Compile collection, Obana chose a unique setting: Mirai Shin no Oka (The Hill of the Future Heart), a sculptural outdoor installation at the Setoda Kosanji Museum. This airy monument, created by sculptor Itto Kuetani, holds a poignant meaning. Kuetani, a native of Hiroshima, was just three years old when the atomic bomb destroyed his city. His work, reflecting an inspiring resilience, embodies a powerful message of hope and enduring beauty.
The inspiration behind the collection is evident in its materiality. Mirai Shin no Oka, constructed of marble, symbolizes permanence, a theme that resonates throughout the collection. Obana incorporates fossil and veiled-marble prints into his designs, further referencing the stone’s enduring presence. The designer also collaborates with architectural firm Ultra Studio to integrate Scagliola, a gypsum-based artificial marble, into textiles, pushing the boundaries of material innovation.
This fascination with minerals extends beyond the collection’s aesthetic. Obana’s personal affinity for marble, particularly its calming effect, is reflected in his collection. He writes about his passion for collecting marble furniture and objects, citing a Mario Botta dining table as an example. The designer sees the minerals as conduits for peace and comfort, their history and patterns offering a sense of grounding and tranquility.
While the collection’s inspiration is rooted in the timeless beauty of minerals, the presentation itself is far from static. Some models appear as if they are posing for tourist snapshots, while others, dusted with shimmering mineral powder, seem to have emerged from a distant galaxy. This intentional ambiguity is typical of Obana’s approach, leaving room for interpretation and allowing viewers to engage with the collection on a personal level.
The collection’s core lies in its minimalist aesthetic. Obana expertly blends modern materials with the cool tones inspired by inorganic minerals, achieving a lightness and breathability that feels distinctly contemporary. The designer employs traditional materials like linen to create a sense of timelessness, reinforcing the collection’s interplay between the past and the present.
The collection features a range of minimalist pieces, including lapel-less jackets, wrap tops, and robe coats. Obana’s signature use of fabric and construction creates subtle but powerful details. A simple string belt tied into a floppy bow adds unexpected fullness to a pair of gray-washed jeans, while a T-shirt extending below the waist from under a bolero-length windbreaker adds a playful touch.
While some looks, like the opening suit, exude a futuristic air, Obana believes it is the solid pieces that best embody the essence of the collection. The plaid with a hint of neon adds visual interest, but it is the tonality of the collection, its connection to the earth and the real, that projects a sense of lasting relevance. In a world increasingly dominated by fleeting trends, N.Hoolywood’s Spring 2025 Compile collection offers a powerful message: true style is timeless and transcends the boundaries of time.
