Nicolas Di Felice, the creative director of Courrèges, is the latest name to guest-design a Jean Paul Gaultier collection. His debut at Courrèges coincided with the start of this collaborative project in 2021, and while Di Felice may have less runway experience than previous collaborators like Chitose Abe of Sacai or Olivier Rousteing of Balmain, his talent was undeniable in this latest presentation.
Di Felice has transformed Courrèges from a heritage label into a go-to for young people seeking sexy club wear and cool vinyl separates that pay homage to the brand’s Space Age origins without being overly nostalgic. His inspiration for the collection? Jean Paul Gaultier, whom he remembers as a symbol of inclusivity and possibility. “For me and for so many queer, different people from the countryside—from everywhere in the world—he represented Paris, a city where everything is possible. He was really the first one to celebrate different people. Everybody remembers this about him and it’s a good thing, because he actually did it,” Di Felice said.
The collection unfolded like a story of a Parisian newcomer, starting with covered-up clothes: jackets and dresses with long sleeves, long skirts, and high necklines. As the show progressed, the pieces gradually revealed more of the body, culminating in dresses that peeled away from the hips, revealing glimpses of skin. This sensuality echoed the erotic gesture that made waves at Di Felice’s last Courrèges show.
The clothes also transitioned from dark to light, with each look drawing inspiration from an archival piece. The collection’s unifying element was the hook-and-eye, which Di Felice discovered in an embroidered fabric swatch from the archive. He used these fasteners as the connecting point for rectangles and squares of gabardine de soie, gazar, and taffeta, luxurious fabrics that he couldn’t afford to use at Courrèges. “I was able to make drapes that wouldn’t be possible without this technique,” he explained. These hooks-and-eyes are adjustable, allowing the wearer to customize their level of exposure.
This adaptability extended to a slip dress that was worn undone at the waist, revealing a sleeveless shell underneath adorned with hook-and-eyes like studs. The collection showcased a captivating blend of strength and fragility, exemplified by the chainmail dress crafted from 40,000 interconnected hooks-and-eyes.
Di Felice’s work at Courrèges has already established him as a rising star, and this Jean Paul Gaultier collaboration only solidified his reputation as a major talent. His ability to blend heritage with a fresh, contemporary vision, and to create pieces that are both beautiful and functional, makes him a force to be reckoned with in the world of fashion.
