Nicomede Talavera, a British-Filipino menswear designer based in London, weaves a captivating narrative through his collections, where heritage meets modernity and playfulness takes center stage. His personal design philosophy is deeply rooted in the art of contrast, reflecting his lifelong fascination with clothing as a powerful form of self-expression. “I was always fascinated by clothing. How it represents so much of who you are and how you present yourself to the world,” Talavera shares. “Menswear came very naturally to me as I myself loved to mix and style different menswear classics together.” He believes that a man’s wardrobe can be both distinctive and appealing, a testament to his commitment to crafting pieces that resonate with an appreciation for refined style.
Talavera’s journey into the world of fashion began at Central Saint Martins, where he earned both a Bachelor’s and a Master’s degree in Fashion. This period, he says, was a defining one, allowing him the freedom to explore, experiment, and challenge conventional notions of what fashion can be. The influential menswear designers of his youth, such as Comme des Garçons, Prada, Helmut Lang, Hedi Slimane, and Raf Simons, left an indelible mark on his aesthetic sensibilities. “It was a time when menswear was very progressive,” he reflects. “These designers pushed the idea of what menswear can be.”
His time spent interning in London, Paris, and New York further honed his craft, exposing him to the intricacies of fabrication, finishing, and timeless design principles. Talavera’s work frequently straddles the line between the avant-garde and the classic, a testament to his ability to seamlessly blend contrasting styles. Under the guidance of his late mentor, the renowned Louise Wilson (whose students include Alexander McQueen and Christopher Kane), Talavera’s artistic vision deepened. “Louise Wilson was a formidable teacher with so much intuition into what is fresh and pure modernity. I was pushed to my limits and challenged.”
Years after founding his label, Nicomede, which has garnered a loyal following and been featured at esteemed retailers like Dover Street Market, Opening Ceremony, and Selfridges, Talavera continues to prioritize creative exploration at the heart of his work. His most recent collections, which he refers to as “episodes” rather than seasons, draw inspiration from his Filipino heritage. As a second-generation Londoner whose parents immigrated from the Philippines, Talavera spent his childhood summers exploring his ancestral homeland. “Over the last couple of years, I have been visiting the Philippines every few months. Especially for research and finding a deeper connection to my ancestors and the Filipino spirit. I am constantly learning and approaching it all with curiosity and a playful outlook.”
Starting with Episode 5, Talavera began integrating Filipino identity and artistry into his work. “One of my most vivid memories of my trips to the Philippines is the vivid sunsets and island spirit,” he shares. This influence manifests in his designs through psychedelic, abstract prints on trousers, polos, and coats, evoking the mesmerizing beauty of rolling sunsets. Hypnotic, cosmic scenes are hand-painted onto leather buttons, symbolizing the sun’s movement across the sky, adding a touch of artistry to stark white jackets. The result is a harmonious blend of contrasting textures and silhouettes, reflecting a forward-thinking yet nostalgic interpretation of tropical life. Minimalist yet luxurious, slouchy yet refined, his garments exude a sense of effortless elegance, as if one had transitioned seamlessly from an evening soirée to the shores of a sun-kissed beach at dawn.
Returning to the Philippines recently to shoot his latest collections for Vogue Philippines, Talavera found himself deeply moved by the magazine’s rich archive. “It is so beautiful to have this archive of our culture. I feel that I am expanding so much not only [in] fashion but in what makes our culture so unique.” Bringing his collections to the Philippines for the first time proved to be a special experience, allowing him to reflect on his creative journey and identify the elements that truly resonated with him. “I would choose the look with the sampaguita flowers as my favorite. So iconic and beautiful to our culture. A humble tribute.”
Currently working on his next collection, which he describes as “a proposal on Filipino artistry and modernity with a global outlook,” Talavera expresses his unwavering commitment to creative exploration. “What excites me is that I am forever evolving. Not just within my creativity, but spiritually too. Both combining together and inspiring each other. Everyday is filled with so much creation and gratitude to celebrate this intention and gift to the world.”
