A storm brewed above Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding’s studio in east London, mirroring the turbulent climate for independent fashion brands. The recent collapse of Matches, a British e-commerce giant, had left many boutique labels reeling, including Palmer Harding. However, 13 years in fashion had equipped this duo with the resilience to weather such storms, thanks to a successful direct-to-consumer business. But amidst these challenging times, a budding romance offered a glimmer of hope. Palmer and Harding, partners in both life and work, were embracing a polyamorous relationship, a journey that had brought them closer together. “Finding who we are outside of each other has strengthened our bond,” shared Harding, describing their evolution as “beautiful.” This newfound love served as the inspiration for their latest resort collection, an ode to the thrilling emotions of a blossoming relationship.
The collection was a symphony of intricate details and expressive silhouettes. Pleats on architectural denim jackets evoked the fluttering of butterflies in the stomach, while double ties on emerald crepe dresses cinched the waist, suggesting the meeting of two bodies. Angled shirt plackets and neck holes mimicked the frenetic pace of a crush, adding a layer of intimacy to the designs. These subtle details were often juxtaposed with outsized, sculptured silhouettes, reflecting the expansive nature of a burgeoning love. Drawing inspiration from the artist Richard Serra, Palmer and Harding began their collection with a list of evocative words: “entwined,” “confession,” and “vulnerable.” But this time, there was an added layer of inspiration. Harding’s new partner contributed two spontaneous line drawings that captured their early encounters – nervous scribbles evolving into soaring graphite lines. These drawings informed the “fit and release” construction of a belted and bat-winged shirt dress, a nip-waisted gown in silver lamé, and a back-draped button-down shirt. “It’s strange,” Palmer remarked about this unconventional influence. “Because I tend to write the collection notes, and so I’ll send texts like, ‘Hey! Today I’m writing about yours and Matthew’s relationship!’ It’s a little out of the box, but we think it’s healthier to communicate.” These big emotions were woven into the clothes with a lightness of touch, showcasing the unique and personal nature of their journey.
