Pillings, the Japanese fashion brand known for its poetic and playful designs, unveiled its Spring/Summer 2025 collection at Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo on September 5th. The collection, inspired by Yūkichi Furuichi’s novel “Yoko,” is a captivating exploration of delicate layering, ethereal fabrics, and a touch of whimsy.
The novel, a poignant story of a young woman’s mental illness and the complex love she experiences, resonated deeply with designer Ryota Murakami. He translated the novel’s melancholic atmosphere into his designs, drawing inspiration from the unchanging scenery outside his atelier window, which he interpreted as a constant interplay between the “outside and the inside.”
This interplay manifested in the collection’s airy knitwear, reminiscent of delicate lace curtains. Layers of soft, pastel-hued fabrics created a sense of weightlessness, transporting viewers to a world both nostalgic and fantastical. The show’s setting, with its pale curtains and gentle sunlight streaming through the windows, further enhanced this ethereal mood.
The color palette was anchored in neutral beiges and soft pinks, punctuated by sharp black accents. The show’s location, evocative of an old school or public building, complemented the collection’s vintage charm, especially the retro green knitwear. Asymmetrical layering and strategically placed sleeves and collars created fluid silhouettes that draped over the body like delicate veils, adding dynamism to the collection’s overall aesthetic.
Pillings’ signature playfulness was evident throughout the collection. A knit dress, crafted from a lace-inspired fabric, was hand-coated in resin, giving it a voluminous, almost pannier-like silhouette. The same fabric was utilized in tops, creating a structured and flowing effect.
The collection’s bottoms featured translucent materials that showcased the intricate construction of the seams, while slightly deeper pockets added a touch of practicality. The deliberate use of wrinkles and folds added a lighthearted rhythm to the styling. “I wanted to create a natural sense of space between the fabric and the woman’s body, using materials like curtains with subtle wrinkles and pleats, rather than just making decorative everyday items,” explained designer Ryota Murakami.
The collection showcased a variety of intricate details. V-neck knitwear, with its emphasis on the décolletage, featured asymmetric gathers, while the use of ant motifs was a recurring theme throughout the collection, representing the “individuality and sociality” of each ant.
Lightweight cardigans and knitwear, reminiscent of sheer curtains, were primarily machine-knitted. These versatile pieces could be worn with one sleeve, draped like a cape, or styled in other unique ways, encouraging individual expression. Pillings’ exquisite craftsmanship and delicate layering transformed luxurious everyday wear into a collection brimming with poetic charm and playful elegance.
