This year’s World Cheese Awards, held in the picturesque Portuguese city of Viseu, saw a record-breaking 4,786 cheeses from 47 countries vying for the coveted title of ‘world’s best cheese’. A panel of 240 expert judges from 40 countries meticulously evaluated each entry, considering four key criteria: visual appeal, body and texture, aroma, and flavor and mouthfeel. The intense competition culminated in a triumphant victory for Portugal.
Emerging as the champion was Queijo de Ovelha Amanteigado, a soft and buttery sheep’s milk cheese crafted by Quinto do Pomar in the Serra da Gardunha region of central Portugal. This exquisite cheese beat out stiff competition from two Swiss cheeses, Tea Fondada and Alpenhorn Mifroma (taking second and third place respectively), as well as strong contenders from Spain (La Cava Barus García-Baquero) and the United States (Bayley Hazen Blue), all of which rounded out the top five.
However, this year’s awards were overshadowed by a significant absence: British cheesemakers. Post-Brexit customs checks resulted in a substantial number of British entries – an estimated 252 cheeses from 67 different producers – failing to clear customs in time for the competition. This unfortunate circumstance prevented British cheese from being represented in the judging, leaving the UK without a top-14 placement for the first time since 2017.
John Farrand, director at the Guild of Fine Food (the organizers of the awards), expressed his frustration over the bureaucratic hurdles encountered. He stated that these delays were entirely unprecedented before the UK’s departure from the European Union. “The reasons are unclear to me,” Farrand told the Observer, “even on Friday we were still fighting to get some clarity and clear instruction on what wasn’t right, but we had no success. Before Brexit, this wouldn’t have been a thing. That’s a fact.” Judge James Grant, co-founder of the Real Cheese Project, echoed Farrand’s sentiments, calling the situation “devastating” and highlighting the significant impact of “Brexit red tape” on British artisan cheesemakers.
Grant’s comments emphasized the dedication and hard work of British cheesemakers, many of whom are striving to revitalize the artisan cheese industry in the UK. The absence of British cheese from this prestigious international competition underscores the significant challenges faced by the industry in navigating the complexities of post-Brexit trade regulations. The event’s outcome serves as a stark reminder of the far-reaching consequences of Brexit on various sectors of the British economy, with the impact on artisan food producers particularly poignant.
The World Cheese Awards, now in its 35th year, continues to celebrate the world’s finest cheeses. While this year’s event saw a spectacular win for Portugal and a record number of entries, the absence of British cheese remains a noteworthy and regrettable aspect of the competition.
