Prabal Gurung, a designer known for his politically charged designs, continues to weave his social commentary into his latest collection. For Spring 2024, Gurung explores themes of cultural celebration, democratic hope, and personal identity, offering a vibrant and optimistic vision.
The collection draws inspiration from the Hindu festival of Holi, a riot of color and joy symbolizing the arrival of spring. This inspiration is evident in the use of vibrant hues, playful patterns, and the incorporation of colored powders, referencing the traditional throwing of colors during Holi celebrations. Gurung’s own heritage, a blend of Jamaican and Indian roots, is also subtly woven throughout the designs.
Gurung’s political stance is clear, with a t-shirt emblazoned with the words “VOTE” and “Harris/Waltz,” a testament to his support for Vice President Kamala Harris. This sentiment is further amplified by the collection’s closing, where a group of models emerged in “suffragette” white, a nod to the fight for women’s suffrage.
Beyond the political statements, the collection showcases Gurung’s mastery of tailoring and his unique ability to blend Eastern and Western aesthetics. Sari-inspired pants paired with pleated tanks, sherwani-inspired jackets, and Grecian-inspired gowns highlight this cultural fusion. Gurung also incorporates elements of his time working at Bill Blass, referencing the designer’s signature style with bubble skirts and a printed mini dress and coat.
The collection is a celebration of diversity, incorporating various fabrics, textures, and silhouettes. The use of handwork, particularly in the light-as-air chiffon plissés, adds an element of craftsmanship and elevates the pieces.
While the collection is undeniably beautiful and filled with optimistic messaging, it might have benefited from a tighter edit. Despite the breadth of styles and influences, Gurung’s message of hope and inclusivity resonates throughout, serving as a powerful testament to his artistic vision and social conscience.
