Repairing our clothes is crucial for increasing their lifespan and preventing them from ending up in landfills. A study by WRAP, a UK textiles charity, revealed that 30% of individuals possess garments in their wardrobes that require mending but remain unworn. Another survey conducted in the US indicated that the majority of people rarely or never repair their clothing.
In response to this alarming trend, Sojo, a repair platform based in the UK, has launched the Pledge To Repair campaign. This initiative urges the British fashion industry to wholeheartedly support care and repair services. Josephine Philips, founder of Sojo, emphasizes the need for collective action, stating: “Our aim is to encourage more brands to embrace repair and involve a wider segment of the public.”
Several notable brands, including Ganni, Rejina Pyo, Ahluwalia, and Nanushka, have already pledged their support for the campaign, which also enjoys the backing of the British Fashion Council (BFC). To ensure genuine commitment, only companies that provide UK-wide repair services with clear communication are eligible to participate. Philips highlights the importance of accessibility, noting that localized repair services are essential for widespread adoption.
Sojo’s mobile app offers a convenient solution to this accessibility issue, enabling customers to effortlessly schedule repair services online. The items are then picked up from the customer’s doorstep (or dropped off at a designated point), undergo repairs or alterations, and are returned within a week.
However, cost remains a significant barrier to repair adoption. Philips acknowledges that many consumers opt for new purchases over repairs due to the affordability of fast fashion. To address this challenge, some brands, such as Patagonia and Ganni, offer free repairs, while Sojo’s partners contribute between 30% and 50% towards the cost.
Initiatives like France’s subsidy on repair, which provides discounts ranging from €6 to €25 depending on the complexity of the service, are crucial for encouraging people to repair their clothing. Philips advocates for additional government measures, such as eliminating VAT on repairs or implementing a “right to repair,” which would hold brands accountable for fixing their products.
She believes that the “right to repair” would incentivize brands to prioritize durability, as they would be financially responsible for repairs. This, in turn, would reduce the production of low-quality, disposable clothing.
Meanwhile, individual brands like Veja are leading the charge in normalizing repairs for customers. Veja opened a repair-dedicated store in Paris in February and offers in-store cobblers in various locations. Sébastien Kopp, Veja’s co-founder and creative director, recognizes the need for better communication and customer experience in promoting repair services. He emphasizes that waste is an industry-wide issue, not limited to specific brands.
Sojo is expanding its repair services to all aspects of the fashion industry by partnering with Vestiaire Collective. This collaboration allows sellers to repair items before listing them on the marketplace and buyers to alter purchases to their liking. Fanny Moizant, Vestiaire Collective’s co-founder and president, highlights the seamless solution provided by this partnership, enabling customers to extend the lifespan of their products.
While the repair market has significant growth potential, Philips is optimistic about the impact of brands embracing repairs. She shares examples of businesses experiencing a substantial increase in repair orders within a year. Philips acknowledges that changing consumer behavior takes time, but she is encouraged by the growing traction for repair services.
This article was originally published on British Vogue.
