Roland Mouret knows his customer well. Stepping into the bright, high-ceilinged studio he shares with Self-Portrait’s Han Chong, you can’t help but be drawn to the tactile allure of his clothing. Each piece seems designed for the sleek urban woman, the one who attends a handful of events every week. “I think we’re starting to own our place in that market from eveningwear to ceremony [dressing],” Mouret says. “It’s not the kind of collection that will change dramatically every season, but it’s always evolving.”
Mouret isn’t being modest. He’s carved a significant niche since launching his eponymous label in 1998, propelled to fame by the iconic Galaxy dress. Since the brand’s acquisition by Chong and subsequent reboot, Mouret has entered a new stride, effortlessly balancing his directional instincts with commercial savvy.
This balance is evident in the very first look of his Spring 2025 collection. A supremely elegant black column dress, it features a twist, literally, in the form of a trailing black-and-white double-sided crepe that curls sculpturally across the shoulder, creating a striking vertical echo of the dress itself. It’s a perfect example of Mouret’s approach: fashion-forward yet wearable, always with a touch of the unexpected.
While past seasons saw Mouret dabbling in the 80s, this time he takes a more subtle approach to decade hopping. There’s a distinctly decadent 80s flavor to the mini dresses, adorned with asymmetric, angular, and diamanté-studded panels. The razor-sharp femme fatale glamour of a blazing red power-shouldered gown with an artful fold of fabric across the bust also speaks to the era.
However, there’s a softer, more romantic side as well, evident in the palette of icy-pale blues, pinks, and yellows. The ravishing gowns crafted from bias-cut silk chiffon, with translucent capes sprouting from a loose, crystal-covered choker, billow dramatically behind the wearer, adding an ethereal touch. And then there are the origami-like, spiraling folds of fabric used to create flower-like corsages that bloom from the bust lines.
Among the most stunning pieces are dresses made from transparent copper brown sequins overlaid on mesh, creating a shimmering, translucent effect on the body. Mouret’s eyes sparkle as he describes these designs, emphasizing that they aren’t mere flights of fancy but a continuation of similar looks from his pre-fall collection, which his clients and buyers received with great enthusiasm.
What is it that makes Mouret’s clothes truly resonate? He may know his customer well, but his endless curiosity as a designer ensures he always wants to learn more about them, season after season. And that’s why they keep coming back.
