Roxanne Lowit wasn’t just any old photographer. Her deliveries weren’t relegated to boring gray boxes or padded yellow envelopes. No, Roxanne, a woman whose name is synonymous with backstage glamour, crafted a meticulously curated experience with each photo delivery. Her clam-shell boxes, often arriving at the office, were filled with carefully sleeved and labeled 35mm transparencies, each one a portal to the most exciting moments of the fashion world. The staff knew it was going to be something special. These were not just ordinary snapshots; they were the stories behind the stories – the crucial minutes before a runway show, the creation of a groundbreaking collection, and the whispers of the hottest parties.
It was 1996, and I, then a Photo Editor at *Vogue*, had the privilege of witnessing Roxanne’s rise to fame. She was already a fixture at the magazine, documenting the backstage frenzy of Paris, Milan, London, and New York fashion weeks. Roxanne had a knack for capturing the essence of the fashion world, and her photographs became windows into an exclusive and often hidden world.
The fashion show was undergoing a transformation. Once a niche experience, it was now attracting a diverse and star-studded audience. Fashion houses like Chanel and Dior poured resources into extravagant sets and elaborate productions, determined to outdo each other and create a truly unforgettable experience. Photographing these shows was considered a man’s domain. A pack of burly photographers with giant lenses jostled for position at the end of each runway. *Vogue* relied on the talents of Guy Marineau in Europe, Dan Lecca in New York, and later, Andrew Lamb. But Roxanne, with her unique approach, saw an opportunity. Rather than joining the scrum at the end of the runway, she used her charm and wit to gain access to the backstage realm.
This behind-the-scenes world, where the magic truly happened, had remained largely hidden from the public eye. Roxanne’s photographs revealed the intense energy and artistry that went into creating a fashion show. She captured the last-minute adjustments, the supermodel moments, the designer’s vision coming to life. It was a world of unparalleled creativity and excitement, and Roxanne captured it all.
Roxanne understood fashion not just as a photographer, but also as a designer. She had a keen eye for detail and a deep understanding of the industry. She saw the stories within the stories, the emerging trends, and the personalities that shaped the fashion world. Her lens revealed a world of rising stars: makeup artists like Kevyn Aucoin and hairstylists like Guido Palau, who were becoming icons in their own right.
And then there were the supermodels: Naomi, Cindy, Christy, Tatiana, and the rising star Kate Moss. Roxanne was there to capture it all, from the glamorous runway moments to the intimate backstage camaraderie. She chronicled the rise of John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, and other designers who were pushing boundaries and redefining the fashion landscape.
Roxanne’s photographs brought the fashion world to a wider audience. They revealed the hidden stories, the creativity, the excitement, and the personalities that made the fashion world so fascinating. She was a true pioneer, a woman who broke down barriers and redefined the role of a fashion photographer.
Roxanne was not just documenting fashion; she was shaping the way we see it. Her photographs were more than just images; they were a window into a world that was both glamorous and authentic, a world that she brought to life with her unique perspective and unparalleled talent.
