The buzz around Sacai, once a brand known primarily among fashion insiders, has reached a fever pitch. Sitting front row at their latest show, it was clear that Sacai has become a global phenomenon. As a longtime fan, I felt a mixture of pride and apprehension—proud to see the brand’s success but also wary of its growing popularity.
Backstage, Chitose Abe, Sacai’s designer, reflected on her 25-year career. While this milestone could easily inspire celebratory reflection, Abe remains focused on the future. With unwavering determination, she continues to push creative boundaries, undeterred by the ever-growing celebrity presence in the front row. “I wanted to return to the origins of Sacai and reinterpret familiar archetypes in a completely new way,” Abe explained through a translator.
The collection itself was rooted in classic wardrobe staples like peacoats, Breton stripes, trench coats, and military jackets, yet each piece exuded a distinct French flair, incorporating couture-inspired embellishments. Abe’s newly established Parisian office is palpable in the designs, as one guest pointed out the “SA” monogram embroidered in gold thread on the pockets of a coat, reminiscent of a classic French luxury house. For me, the delicate collar of a white shirt captured the Parisian breeze.
Other highlights included a bustle accentuating striped garments, chunky knits featuring sheer overlays on the shoulders and back, voluminous pile coats that rivaled real fur, and mini skirts adorned with thick pile fringe. These elevated details were a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship that defines Sacai.
The show’s finale featured three stunning evening looks that showcased Abe’s exceptional pattern-making and cutting skills. These formal yet unconventional pieces were quintessentially Sacai, challenging traditional notions of elegance. The Sacai Spring/Summer 2025 collection is a testament to the brand’s enduring power. Abe’s commitment to innovation and her unique vision, combined with the elegance of Parisian influence, result in a collection that is both familiar and remarkably fresh. It is a collection that speaks to the brand’s evolution, while remaining true to its core identity.
