The impact of Saint Laurent’s spring/summer 2025 show is already reverberating on the streets. The morning after the show, Vogue’s Daniel Rodgers subtly referenced Bella Hadid’s tailored runway return by sporting a gently oversized pinstripe blazer at The Adelphi. In Paris, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Gigi Hadid have made slouchy leather jackets the focal point of their street style, while models rushing between casting calls are layering their own biker jackets over basic outfits.
While the leather jacket is a familiar wardrobe staple, there’s something particularly fresh about Saint Laurent’s drop-shouldered, buckled, supple designs. On the catwalk, these popped-collar pieces served as protective outerwear to louche suiting, adding a touch of toughness to office wear. “You’re dressed. It’s about control, and power, in a way,” said Anthony Vaccarello, referencing his sharp approach to creating a “relaxed” look.
Beyond the glamorous headquarters of YSL, the Hadid sisters have been using their softly sloping jackets to infuse their downtime looks (and even Rosalía’s birthday party) with a blend of nonchalance and grit. No one wants to look overly polished or like they’ve meticulously planned their fashion week wardrobe – even if, like Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, they have. A textured leather jacket offers the swagger of a biker lifestyle but with the luxury of a satin lining.
Autumn always brings with it a resurgence of leather jackets in various iterations – fitted All Saints-style zip-ups, aviator Acne Studios styles, and Saks Potts-meets-The Matrix trench coats. This trend continued on the London AW24 runways, with burnished moto jackets at JW Anderson, corseted styles at Dilara Findikoglu, and balloon-sleeved, funnel-collared takes at Knwls and Supriya Lele. Laura Hawkins reported that the most memorable iteration came from Daniel Lee at Burberry, where Maya Wigram, daughter of Phoebe Philo, walked the runway in a belted design that perfectly balanced heritage-chic with moto-babe glamour.
While indie sleaze fans will be thrilled to see their leather jackets (and second-skin jeans) make a comeback, this season’s jacket mandate demands super-sized zip-ups. Now is not the time to channel your inner Marianne Faithfull in ‘Girl on a Motorcycle.’ Instead, it’s about rummaging through thrift stores and finding a late grandpa’s worn-in, rugged flight jacket. This year’s autumn essentials should look well-loved and lived in. Just remember to channel the attitude of Faithfull, Marlon Brando, Patti Smith, and other leather icons who contributed to the Saint Laurent swagger we’re seeing today. And of course, scoring a Saint Laurent leather jacket is never a bad idea.
