Sarah Burton, the newly appointed creative director of Givenchy, is a woman of quiet strength. While she may be reserved in her words, her designs speak volumes. A deep dive into her collections for Alexander McQueen reveals a vibrant imagination that seamlessly blends sci-fi with Tudor references, military rigor with the delicate beauty of butterflies and other wonders of the natural world.
Romance and restraint are central to Burton’s artistic philosophy. She possesses a profound understanding of texture, masterfully employing flocked fabrics, micro pleats, feathers, and extravagant draping, often inspired by the graceful forms of flowers and, in one notable instance, the intricate details of female anatomy. Her embellishment techniques are equally masterful, featuring couture-like beadwork delicately placed on sheer fabrics, creating the illusion of animating shadows.
At McQueen, Burton built upon the legacy of the brilliant and tormented British designer, adding her own touch of softness and refinement. While Givenchy is synonymous with Audrey Hepburn in pop culture, the brand’s history is also deeply intertwined with the influence of Cristóbal Balenciaga. Burton, too, brings experience working in collaboration, having joined McQueen directly from fashion school.
Time will tell if Burton’s aesthetic will resonate with Givenchy’s heritage, but one thing is certain: her clear vision and unwavering commitment to craftsmanship are undeniable. The images below offer a glimpse into Burton’s artistry, showcasing the intricate details that define her work.
Elements of Burton’s Design:
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Sleeves and Drapery:
Burton is known for her innovative use of sleeves and draping, often creating dramatic silhouettes and adding a sense of movement to her designs.*
Embellishment:
From intricate beadwork to delicate embroidery, Burton’s embellishments are a hallmark of her work, adding a touch of luxury and elegance to each piece.*
Corsets and Harnesses:
Burton frequently incorporates corsets and harnesses into her designs, adding a touch of structure and sensuality.*
Florals:
Flowers are a recurring theme in Burton’s work, inspiring both prints and intricate embellishments.*
Feathers, Birds, Butterflies:
Nature is a powerful source of inspiration for Burton, with feathers, birds, and butterflies often appearing in her designs.*
