Satoshi Kuwata and Masayuki Ino, two leading Japanese fashion designers, share insights into their careers and the global fashion industry in a recent interview. Both have achieved significant recognition through the LVMH Prize, a prestigious award that celebrates emerging talents in fashion.
Their initial connection was through a congratulatory message from Ino to Kuwata on Instagram after Kuwata won the LVMH Prize in 2023. Although they had never met before, Ino had heard about Kuwata’s work through a mutual acquaintance. Both designers acknowledge the LVMH Prize as a coveted goal for many designers, with Ino emphasizing the significance of his win as the first Japanese recipient in 2018, paving the way for future generations.
The conversation touches on their experiences with Dover Street Market, a global retailer known for its curated selection of contemporary fashion. Ino credits the platform for his brand’s growth, highlighting the exposure it brought through its locations in Ginza, London, and New York. Both designers value the opportunity to participate in Dover Street Market’s vision of constantly engaging and entertaining customers through fashion.
Kuwata, who has spent a considerable amount of time living in London, expresses admiration for Dover Street Market and its founder, Rei Kawakubo. He emphasizes the significance of the current collaboration with them, a testament to his brand’s journey and aspirations. They discuss potential future collaborations, including the possibility of Kuwata creating a unique display for his brand, drawing inspiration from Japanese bathhouses, a concept similar to Ino’s previous work.
The interview delves into the distinct qualities of each designer’s work. Kuwata praises Ino’s impeccable tailoring, contrasting it with the often-rough construction of younger European brands. Ino, in turn, expresses his admiration for Kuwata’s craftsmanship, particularly his signature “origami jacket,” a modern interpretation of traditional Japanese garments, and his unique approach to naming his designs, such as the “Geisha” jacket, a reference to the traditional Japanese attire.
The discussion then shifts to the changing landscape of the LVMH Prize, specifically the differences in support and financial rewards between Ino’s win in 2018 and Kuwata’s win in 2023. While Ino received 300,000 Euros, Kuwata received 400,000 Euros. Both designers emphasize the increasing support and mentorship provided by LVMH, tailored to the specific needs of each winner. Ino shares his strategy of maintaining his initial vision while navigating the sudden rise in brand recognition after his win. He credits LVMH for guidance on aspects like presenting collections in Paris while emphasizing the importance of organic growth. Kuwata, on the other hand, mentions his relationship with Sophie Brocart, CEO of Patou, a Maison within the LVMH group, who provides valuable insights on various aspects of brand management, from sourcing materials to developing business plans.
The conversation explores the importance of globalization in the fashion industry, emphasizing the role of language and cultural understanding. While Kuwata acknowledges his advantage due to his extended time living overseas, he believes that genuine craftsmanship and passion for design can transcend language barriers. Both designers agree on the value of incorporating Japanese elements into their work, recognizing its global appeal. Kuwata highlights his brand name, “Setchu,” which translates to “Compromise,” as a reflection of his fusion of Japanese and European influences. Ino emphasizes the authenticity of staying true to his roots and experiences, believing that genuine expression resonates with audiences worldwide.
The interview concludes with reflections on future ambitions. Ino expresses the importance of showcasing his work through runway shows during Paris Fashion Week but acknowledges the significant financial investment required. He emphasizes the importance of sustainable business practices to ensure the continuation of his brand’s vision. Kuwata shares his desire to further increase his brand’s visibility. Both designers acknowledge the competitive nature of the fashion industry but also highlight the value of mutual respect and inspiration, drawing parallels to the admiration they have for legendary designers like Karl Lagerfeld and Kenzo Takada.
As the interview concludes, both designers emphasize their shared journey and their mutual support for each other, highlighting the importance of collaboration and inspiration within the competitive fashion landscape.
