Daniel Roseberry is having a moment. Fashion, in a departure from the muted tones of quiet luxury and the predictable algorithms, is embracing a more eccentric mood. And eccentric fashion is Roseberry’s forte, as he has repeatedly proven at his couture shows for Schiaparelli. Ready-to-wear is a newer venture for the house, and Roseberry has been experimenting with its formula over the past few seasons. While dialing down the surrealist elements that Elsa Schiaparelli, the brand’s founder, was famous for, he still embraces them with gusto, making it clear that he is crafting clothes for those who dare to be bold.
Consider Kendall Jenner’s blue jeans, with their distinctive U-shaped dip at the waistband, both front and back, accentuating the cinched silhouette of her ivory jersey bodysuit, complete with a stretch corset. This is denim with an unmistakable flair. The hourglass shape was a recurring motif, appearing on a zip-front denim day dress and a more formal halter dress, crafted in black compact jersey with off-white draping below the hips. Roseberry, however, isn’t focused on singular themes or trends. Instead, he envisions a collection inspired by the eclectic closet of a social butterfly, a wardrobe filled with zebra stripes, confident shoulder pads, and hand-painted sequin florals. This is a celebration of individuality and a playful approach to fashion.
During a preview, Roseberry emphasized the limited use of embroidery in this season’s collection. He instead opted for alternative methods of creating texture and visual interest. One such example is the gathering of the blue mesh jersey of a bodycon dress into a series of knots, forming a long braid that the model held like a whip. Another technique involves stitching strips of suede to a knit dress, then sealing the edges with shellac for a subtle shimmer. “It’s all about taking that oomph that people love from the couture and making it just super-effortless,” Roseberry explained.
This approach extends to the season’s new footwear. Roseberry has gained significant attention for Schiaparelli’s golden trompe l’oeil toe sneakers. Building on this concept, he has added a golden toe ring to the trompe l’oeil toes of leather babouche slides – a playful and unconventional design. The collection is a testament to Roseberry’s ability to balance whimsical details with wearable designs, creating a wardrobe that is both bold and effortlessly cool.
