Daniel Roseberry, the proud Texan at the helm of Schiaparelli’s artistic direction for almost five years, exudes confidence and excitement as he prepares for his Spring-Summer 2025 runway show. In his own words, “I feel good, happy, and quite confident. We’re putting the final touches on the collection.”
Roseberry, true to his commitment to honoring Elsa Schiaparelli’s legacy, has consistently injected the visionary spirit of the founder into each collection. The collection embodies Elsa’s signature style, marked by experimentation, fantasy, and daring. The Spring-Summer 2025 collection marks Roseberry’s fourth ready-to-wear show for Schiaparelli. He aims to present a fresh perspective on design, characterized by sophistication and a sense of ease. “The house is better known for its large, surreal custom suits that celebrities wear on red carpets, for its haute couture,” Roseberry explains, “but I don’t think people are very familiar with our ready-to-wear approach.” With this collection, he embarks on a journey to re-establish the basics, creating timeless pieces that remain true to the essence of Schiaparelli.
Roseberry draws inspiration from the archetypes of menswear, reimagining classic pieces with a feminine touch. He seamlessly blends traditional masculine staples like tank tops and tennis polos with elastic corsets that cinch the waist and classic denim with sensually low-cut, curved silhouettes. His American roots are evident in the collection’s infusion of athletic aesthetics, a style that also resonated with Elsa Schiaparelli.
The collection embraces a harmonious blend of sophistication and comfort. Polka dots dominate the collection, adorning a sculptural, draped halter gown and a form-fitting dark blue dress. Denim appears throughout, manifesting in barrel-leg jeans, a micro-skirt, and an oversized coat that effortlessly transitions from day to night.
Roseberry reveals his favorite look: “The one I’m most proud of is the one Mona Tougaard wore. A polo-neck bodysuit with a built-in knit corset, paired with a draped skirt and topped off with a bow that culminates in a long braid.” Other prominent runway stars like Adriana Lima, Irina Shayk, Kendall Jenner, and Candice Swanepoel graced the runway in Roseberry’s creations, adding their unique allure to the collection.
Roseberry christens his collection “Future Vintage,” a title that embodies his desire to create pieces for his clients that transcend time, passed down from mother to daughter, and daughter to granddaughter. The collection embodies an ode to femininity in its various forms, a direct reflection of Roseberry’s own muses: “I get inspired every day by the women around me. It ranges from my mother to my 36-year-old friend who has a child, not forgetting the women I work with, models, stylists, technicians… This collection, like all my work, is a tribute to the women who inspired and created it.”
While embracing a collection infused with casual, effortless codes, Roseberry remains true to the elements that have brought Schiaparelli fame. He continues to celebrate the house’s iconic trompe l’oeil motifs and accessories, including the Secret bag with its padlock closure, a new variation of the Schiap in vibrant hues, playful animal print heeled shoes, and the signature keyhole.
Roseberry’s mastery in transforming the ordinary into the extraordinary is evident in the thunderous applause that reverberated through the venue at the show’s conclusion. His Spring-Summer 2025 collection is a testament to his vision, honoring the legacy of Schiaparelli while carving his own unique path in the realm of fashion.
