Not all acne is created equal, and it can appear for any number of reasons, often at the most inconvenient times. Figuring out the type of blemish, why it has suddenly emerged, and the best way to deal with it can be challenging. Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast with a complex routine or a minimalist with a limited set of trusted products, determining the cause of an outbreak and the appropriate course of action can be a minefield. Do you address eruptions with drying blemish or acne treatments, or let a skin flare-up run its course? Vogue sought the expertise of general medicine consultant and aesthetic physician, Dr. Ifeoma Ejikeme, to explain what skin purging is, how to differentiate it from an ordinary breakout, and how to manage it effectively.
Dr. Ejikeme explains that skin purging occurs when a product or process accelerates the skin’s cell turnover, resulting in tiny open or closed comedones, commonly appearing as whiteheads on the skin. While the term “skin purging” may not be found in scientific journals, it is well-recognized in clinical practice. It is often associated with ingredients that increase skin turnover, such as retinoids, AHAs, BHAs, PHAs, chemical peels, and even lasers. These ingredients can prompt the skin to purge.
The duration of skin purging can vary from four days to six weeks, but typically lasts around two weeks. It’s important to understand that purging is neither inherently good nor bad. It can happen after using excellent products, but also occurs when the skin barrier is compromised before starting a product or treatment. The risk of purging can be minimized by first repairing the skin barrier function and then gradually introducing the treatment or product.
Breakouts and skin purging are essentially on a continuum. A breakout begins with a clogged pore that becomes inflamed, leading to open or closed comedones. In purging, this process is accelerated, often triggered by a new product or treatment. If you persist with the product or treatment, you can expect your skin to improve over time.
If you experience skin purging while the skin barrier is compromised, focus on using ingredients that aid in barrier repair, such as ceramides and hyaluronic acid in a non-comedogenic formulation. If you are already using a treatment or product, proceed with a slower approach.
It’s crucial to avoid being aggressive when you see purging and recognize that it can be part of achieving optimal skin results. Treat your skin gently – avoid picking or exfoliating away the papules, as this can worsen the situation. Instead, review your products, reduce their frequency if your skin feels dry and tight, and hydrate the skin with a gentle cleanser, such as CeraVe’s Hydrating Cleanser, or a low percentage salicylic cleanser, along with noncomedogenic moisturizers. At the clinic, treatments such as LED light can be highly beneficial in calming the skin. This article was originally published on Vogue.com.
