Sofia, Bulgaria’s captivating capital, has witnessed a remarkable transformation over its 7,000-year history. A leisurely stroll through its yellow stone-paved downtown, dotted with ancient Roman ruins and stunning examples of Byzantine, Ottoman, and 20th-century European architecture, reveals the depth of its historical roots. Yet, a modern soul pulsates through every corner. Sofia has emerged as a significant tech and start-up hub in Southeast Europe, attracting international attention and talent. It is also home to Nu Boyana, one of Europe’s most prominent movie production studios, where many recent Hollywood blockbusters have been partially filmed.
Sofia’s vibrant cultural life boasts dozens of galleries and museums, including the National Gallery, where Oscar-winning actress and photographer Jessica Lange held a retrospective this summer. The city also hosts numerous food, music, literary, and performance art festivals, including the Sofia International Movie Festival, which showcased 170 films from over 50 countries this year, and the International A to Jazz Fest, attracting over 50,000 jazz enthusiasts annually. “Sofia […] is a city that beautifully blends history and modernity,” shares Maria Bakalova, the Bulgarian Oscar-nominated actress, in an interview with Vogue. “It’s one of Europe’s oldest capitals, yet it continues to evolve in such dynamic and modern ways. Every time I return, I’m reminded of how vibrant and cosmopolitan it has become while still retaining its unique charm with cozy streets and aristocratic old buildings. It’s quite eclectic and beautiful.”
Bakalova, who grew up in Burgas, a town on the Black Sea coast, moved to Sofia to pursue her studies at the National Academy for Theatre and Film Arts and lived there for several years. She still enjoys spending time in the National Palace of Culture Park or catching breathtaking sunsets from Kopitoto, an area in Vitosha Mountain offering panoramic views of the Sofia valley. This duality, as Bakalova points out, is what makes Sofia so unique. The city, sitting at a cultural crossroads, possesses a rawness and unpretentiousness that are becoming increasingly rare in a world obsessed with TikTok-perfect versions of cities. Sofia remains a diamond in the rough, a city with an ancient soul in the process of building its modern identity, harmonizing Western values and aesthetics without sacrificing its Balkan traditions. Unlike many European capitals where international brands dominate prime downtown real estate, Sofia retains its unique character.
Take a stroll through the Women’s Market (or Zhenski Pazar) downtown, the city’s oldest open-air market, established in 1878. You might find yourself filling your bags with everything from fresh produce and homemade jams to counterfeit bags and t-shirts. But walk 15 minutes to Saborna Street, and you’ll be shopping for a wool coat at Max Mara and cashmere sweaters at Zegna. And if you need a break from the city’s vibrant soundtrack, find solace in the lush Borisova Gradina, a 3,300-acre park with tree-lined paved trails right in the heart of downtown.
## Where to Stay
In 2026, Nobu Hotel will open its first Bulgarian outpost in Sofia’s historic Bankers Building, a 1912 architectural gem in the heart of downtown. Until then, travelers have numerous options for stylish stays within the city. The boutique Sense Hotel, a member of Design Hotels, is a favorite of Maria Bakalova. Each of its 71 rooms embraces minimalism, while guests can also find peaceful moments in the hotel’s tranquil spa, complete with a sauna and a sparkling swimming pool. Several suites offer private balconies with Vitosha mountain views. However, the true gem is the ninth-floor rooftop bar and restaurant, which delights guests with handcrafted cocktails, stunning floor-to-ceiling city views, and DJ-curated music.
Juno Hotel, another Design Hotels member, is a recent and impressive addition to Sofia’s hospitality scene. Located on a quiet street near the National Theater, the hotel’s modern facade, a striking combination of light stone and black window shutters, is anchored by a massive wooden door that leads to a contemporary lobby with custom artwork and sleek furnishings. The 34 rooms and penthouse suite feature elevated furniture pieces by Zanotta and Space Copenhagen, Bang & Olufsen soundbars, and calming natural tones. Cookó Kitchen, the hotel’s all-day restaurant on the ground floor, stands out with its innovative farm-to-table menu of East Mediterranean and Bulgarian flavors, reinterpreted for modern palates.
For those who prefer a prime location, the InterContinental, an IHG Hotel, sits on Parliament Square, offering spectacular views of one of Sofia’s iconic landmarks, the St. Alexandar Nevski Cathedral. This five-star hotel welcomes guests to spacious rooms with king-sized beds, plush linens, and oversized windows. For a truly special experience, upgrade to one of the top-floor suites with private balconies and picturesque city vistas. A stay here includes delicious a la carte and buffet breakfast, best enjoyed on the hotel’s terrace opposite Bulgaria’s former parliament building.
If you prefer a setting away from the downtown bustle, book a room at Maison Sofia Hotel—MGallery, the Accor-owned 99-key hotel nestled in the Lozenetz residential neighborhood. A lush, quaint garden and an indoor pool complement the property’s elegantly furnished rooms and suites.
## Where to Eat and Drink
“Sofia’s dining scene has changed a lot in the past few years, and you are starting to see more and more restaurants offering modern flavors and dishes created by Bulgarian chefs,” says Atanas Balkanski, chef at one of Sofia’s most talked-about new restaurants. Balkanski, a 31-year-old chef who honed his skills in Western Europe and San Francisco before returning to Bulgaria, opened Aria this year. The restaurant, housed in a sleek glass building on a quiet street in downtown Sofia, features indoor and outdoor seating in a serene courtyard and focuses on seasonal fare prepared with local ingredients. Balkanski explains that the goal was to offer a modern, elevated version of Bulgarian cuisine while maintaining its approachability and deliciousness. (The chicken paté with plum marmalade is a crowd-pleaser, he notes.) The menu, which features an abundance of seafood options, is complemented by a curated wine list featuring award-winning Bulgarian sommelier Zhivko Enchev’s selections, showcasing the country’s rich winemaking traditions with many unique-to-Bulgaria grape varieties.
Cosmos is another award-winning favorite serving contemporary Bulgarian cuisine. The culinary concept centers around reinterpreting classic Bulgarian recipes—recently, a velvety smooth zucchini cream soup with sheep cheese and risotto with sea bass, fennel, and lovage were part of the restaurant’s daily menu, which I enjoyed for lunch with a glass of homemade lemonade. The dining room has a rustic feel with wooden accents and exposed brick walls.
Komat is another modern eatery that has been gaining accolades and awards since its 2023 opening. Here, your taste buds are treated to artfully prepared (and presented) local ingredients in a minimalist dining room, housed in a striking building covered in rusting steel panels. If you follow a plant-based diet, head to Soul Kitchen, an eclectic, homey eatery in a two-story home. Order from a menu of seasonal vegan and raw dishes, including green salad with grilled oyster mushrooms, flaxseed tacos with artichoke, saffron risotto with snow peas and broccoli, and gluten-free pancakes. Sabale is a hip breakfast/brunch spot with an espresso bar and an industrial chic vibe, serving classics like avocado toast, scrambled eggs with chives, and sourdough bread from an open kitchen.
Sofia’s cocktail scene is also on the rise. The Cocktail Bar, a charming spot with interiors reminiscent of a French bistro and wrought iron outdoor seating in a small park, has a reputation for serving some of the capital’s most creative concoctions blended by talented mixologists. In the chic V.Bar, light bites and tapas complement a robust cocktail list of artfully prepared and delicious cocktails, almost all highlighting a Bulgarian ingredient—a local spirit or an aromatic herb. And if you’re looking for a casual spot with a cozy vibe and an extensive beer and whiskey selection, Eddie Sicoy is your best bet. Besides being a popular hang-out spot for English-speaking travelers and locals, it also doubles as a venue for pop-up exhibitions and events.
## Where to Shop
“Sofia is trapped between getting glossy and still being dodgy and rough, which is what I like about it. It’s a combination between Athens, Istanbul, and Berlin,” says Bulgarian-born Berlin-based fashion and lifestyle expert Julian Daynov, highlighting the city’s expanding creative scene in recent years. Sofia is indeed a creative hub for independent artists, jewelry designers, and fashion designers, and its streets are lined with small ateliers, galleries, and art spaces.
While Vitosha Boulevard, the capital’s main commercial destination, seems to attract the most tourists, we suggest exploring lesser-known areas for a more authentic glimpse into the city’s shopping offerings. Shishman Street, in the heart of downtown, stretches less than 10 city blocks, but it is home to a high concentration of creative businesses. Testa Gallery displays jewelry and objets d’art by Bulgarian and international artists and designers, while next door is No8 Design Shop, a concept store for exquisite homeware goods and gifts from across Europe. I always make time for The Beautecary, an elegant marketplace for upscale, clean beauty brands. And if you must have your Balenciaga or Celine fix, stop by ALL U RE, an iconic concept store with a top-notch selection of clothing and accessories. Across the street, you’ll find Brunello Cucinelli and Emporio Armani stores.
However, I spend most of my time exploring Kvartal, Sofia’s arts district, located between Maria Luiza Boulevard, Slivnitza, Knyaz Aleksandar Dondukov Boulevard, and Rakosvki Street, with dozens of art studios, independent stores of all kinds, bars, and coffee shops. Viktor Pavlov, a jewelry designer and Sofia native with degrees in drawing and metalwork, operates a small atelier on Veslets Street. His jewelry, inspired by the natural world, has a delicate ruggedness that he infuses with contemporary aesthetics for a modern look. Further down the street is Art.E, a cozy boutique for handmade porcelain and ceramic goods, and steps away is Sito Studio, dedicated to printmaking with a store and educational space for workshops and classes. And book lovers shouldn’t miss Mahala Bookstore, with a superb selection of hard-to-find English-language books and magazines.
