Even before news of his collaboration with Zara leaked, fashion insiders were already buzzing about Stefano Pilati’s comeback. The Berlin-based, Italian-born designer had been subtly hinting at a new venture on Instagram, posting images from his iconic days at YSL, where he served as creative director from 2004 to 2012. Now, the wait is over, as Pilati unveils his capsule collection for Zara – a range of clothing and accessories for both men and women shot by the legendary Steven Meisel and starring none other than Gisele Bündchen and Pilati himself.
Pilati’s relationship with Marta Ortega Pérez, chair of Inditex (Zara’s parent company), spans a decade, and the two have long discussed collaborating. When the opportunity arose in January, Pilati didn’t hesitate. “I said, ‘let’s do it,'” he shared. “It seemed very straightforward and fun for me. It was also a different way to approach designing from what I’m doing with Random.” Random Identities, Pilati’s gender-fluid label launched in 2017 after his stint at Zegna, showcases a more streamlined approach to design.
Ortega Pérez’s initial vision was for a men’s collection celebrating Pilati’s distinctive approach to clothing. In 2016, this website hailed Pilati as one of the most stylish men in fashion, with Sally Singer describing him as “the epitome of fearless, intuitive elegance.” However, the project’s scope expanded to encompass womenswear as well. “I’ve had many women who like the way I dress over the years,” Pilati explains. “I guess it’s the care I dedicate. Maybe men see it as an act of vanity, while women see it as, I don’t know, more familiar.”
Pilati’s signature style shines through in both the men’s and women’s pieces. Expect to see his signature full pants with exaggerated breaks, tailored black minidresses with the distinctive shoulder structure he honed at Saint Laurent, and a playful touch of nostalgia with a tailleur embroidered with strawberries – a nod to his past collections. “It’s just me,” Pilati laughs, referring to his penchant for incorporating personal touches into his designs.
Pilati’s journey is far from over. Earlier this month, he announced a new business partnership to scale up Random Identities. His collaboration with Zara, however, reveals a desire for a more elevated creative expression. “Working on Zara made me feel that perhaps I miss something that is a bit more elevated, you know, compared to what I do with Random,” he reflects. “Random is economized in terms of creativity—it’s one coat, dark fabric, boom, basta. This made me feel how much I enjoy doing a collection.”
Pilati’s Zara capsule collection arrives in stores and online on Thursday, October 3, with prices ranging from $17.90 to $399. Get ready to experience the unique blend of elegance, sophistication, and playfulness that defines the world of Stefano Pilati.
