Like many others in the sustainable fashion field, designer Sarah Brunfuber was profoundly impacted by the documentary “The True Cost”, which exposed the shocking human cost and environmental damage caused by fast fashion. This 2015 film sparked a desire in Brunfuber, a German-born, British-raised designer, to make a difference. While studying design at the Design Academy Eindhoven (DAE) in the Netherlands, she realized she wanted to contribute to a more ethical fashion industry.
After completing an internship with Henrik Vibskov in Copenhagen, Brunfuber conceived a zero-waste production technique that involved directly weaving patterned fabric onto a loom, eliminating waste. Initially, she handcrafted each piece, leaving the edges loose to create a fringed effect. “It took about a month to finish one piece, as I wove and then hand-tied it,” she explained.
Upon graduating, Brunfuber moved to Copenhagen and recognized the potential of her technique to reduce waste. “The average fabric production involves 15-25% waste from cutting, and we all turn a blind eye to it,” she pointed out. With funding from European innovation fund projects and Innovation Fund Denmark, she collaborated with a factory in Prato, Italy, to industrialize her process.
This funding made possible the launch of STEM, a slow fashion brand embodying her zero-waste philosophy. In 2021, Brunfuber released “Edition 1”, a small collection featuring fringed denim made from a blend of recycled and virgin cotton. Her work quickly caught the eye of Danish cult label GANNI, leading to a collaboration the following year.
Brunfuber continues to refine her craft, launching “Edition 2” in January, a capsule collection featuring a new ultra-stretchable deadstock wool. This collection was showcased at GANNI’s “Fabrics of the Future” exhibition during Copenhagen Fashion Week. “I only work with natural fibers, so I thought about how to reduce plastic in clothing,” Brunfuber explained. “I collaborated with a yarn research studio to develop this stretch wool, and it’s now being industrialized.”
In Spring/Summer 2025, STEM made its official Copenhagen Fashion Week debut, presenting “Edition 3” as part of a presentation format. The latest collection features a new technique the designer calls “pulling”, which involves “re-weaving the loosely woven sections, pulling them apart from the loom and then reshaping them.”
This unique process resulted in a collection of artisanal pieces, including fringed rugby shirts and textured miniskirts, showcasing the designer’s intricate craftsmanship. To combat overproduction, the brand is accepting pre-orders through its official website. “Many people are already showing interest, which is very exciting,” Brunfuber remarked.
STEM’s next step is to establish a textile factory in Denmark. This is a dream for the designer, who aims to create a circular and waste-free local production process. She concluded, “I want to revive the textile culture here.”
