Fashion month has come to an end for another season, leaving us with a fresh wave of trends and an important question: how is the industry progressing on its sustainability journey? While the topic might not be as prominent as in previous seasons, it’s encouraging to see a growing number of brands incorporating eco-friendly fabrications and practices into their collections without making it their sole selling point. Let’s explore some of the noteworthy sustainability moments you might have missed from the spring/summer 2025 shows.
Pre-loved Fashion Takes the Spotlight
eBay’s Endless Runway shows in New York and London saw pre-loved fashion take center stage. Showgoers and viewers at home were able to bid on items straight from the catwalk, giving new life to cherished pieces. Oxfam, in partnership with Vinted, brought back its second-hand fashion show, with Vogue’s own Julia Hobbs gracing the runway in the iconic banana-print top worn by Kate Moss. Coperni showcased vintage Disney T-shirts in celebration of their Disneyland Paris show, while a host of supermodels walked the Roberto Cavalli catwalk in archival designs, paying homage to the late designer. The growing presence of second-hand and vintage pieces on the runway is a promising sign for a more sustainable future in fashion.
Highlighting the Textile Waste Crisis
Beyond the glitz and glamour of the shows, a giant clothing zombie designed by The Or Foundation stood as a stark reminder of the textile waste crisis. Based in Ghana’s Kantamanto Market, the world’s largest second-hand clothing market, The Or Foundation partnered with Vestiaire Collective to showcase and sell upcycled garments from Ghanaian designers. The organization is calling for brands to be transparent about their production volumes, demanding greater accountability within the industry.
Circular Fashion Takes Center Stage
Diesel, known for its denim heritage, took a bold step towards circularity. Their Milan catwalk was transformed into an ocean of 15 tonnes of denim scraps sourced from their factories, destined for repurposing. Glenn Martens, Diesel’s creative director, stated, “There is beauty in waste, in what is distressed and destroyed.” The brand’s commitment to circularity is evident in their use of regenerative, organic, and recycled cotton, with a significant increase from 3% to 57% of their denim production since Martens’ arrival in 2020.
Next-Gen Materials on the Runway
The spring/summer 2025 shows witnessed a surge in innovative materials. Christian Siriano featured Circ, a recycled fiber made from polycotton waste, while Feben utilized OnceMore, a blend of viscose and recycled textiles waste. Knwls partnered with Tencel, a sustainably sourced wood-based fiber, and Karoline Vitto showcased her designs using Seacell, a seaweed-based material. Ganni made a splash in Paris with its Fabrics of the Future innovations, including Oleatex, an olive-oil based leather alternative, and Celium, a bacteria-grown leather.
Stella McCartney Advocates for Birds
Stella McCartney, a long-time animal rights advocate, has always avoided using leather in her collections. This season, she shifted her focus to birds, highlighting the alarming fact that an estimated 3.4 billion birds are killed annually for feather down. Instead of using feathers, McCartney crafted a collection inspired by birds, from dove prints to bird-shaped bra tops and a fluffy blue minidress made from recycled plastic bottles.
Celebrating Sustainability Champions
The CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards in Milan recognized Brunello Cucinelli with the Visionary Award for his dedication to Italian craftsmanship and ethical business practices. Diesel was also honored for its commitment to circularity, and Arizona Muse’s charity Dirt, which promotes regenerative agriculture in fashion, received recognition for its efforts. These awards are a testament to the growing importance of sustainability in the fashion industry and the dedication of individuals and brands who are paving the way for a more responsible future.
