The hit television series *Yellowstone* has captivated audiences with its dramatic storyline and portrayal of Montana ranch life. But beyond the captivating plot, the show’s authenticity extends to its meticulous costume design, a testament to the dedication of costume designer Johnetta Boone. Boone’s commitment to realism goes beyond simply dressing actors; it’s about crafting a wardrobe that reflects the lived experiences of modern cowboys and cowgirls. This means no pristine, store-bought clothing. Instead, Boone employs a unique process to age and distress garments, imbuing them with a palpable sense of history and wear.
For Boone, the key is capturing the essence of working-class individuals who make their living in the rugged landscape of the American West. To achieve this, she employs a range of techniques. Clothing that looks too new is run through a cement roller, scorched with a heat torch, or abraded with sandpaper. The goal? To create a lived-in patina that reflects the harsh realities of ranch life. This is crucial for believability, ensuring that the wardrobe aligns seamlessly with the characters’ lives and jobs. The clothes worn by the Dutton family and their ranch hands aren’t just garments; they’re visual storytelling elements integral to the show’s success.
The devil, as they say, is in the details. Boone’s attention to these smaller nuances is what elevates the show’s authenticity. Consider jeans, for example. The average person might wear a 32-inch inseam; but real cowboys, she explains, opt for much longer 38-inch inseams. Why? The practical reality of riding horses means that shorter inseams would ride up, revealing the top of the boots. This is just one example of how Boone meticulously researches and incorporates the functional aspects of clothing into the show. It’s about understanding the practical needs and everyday wear-and-tear faced by those who work on a ranch.
Then there are the hats. Boone highlights that working cowboys require hats that are not just stylish, but also waterproof and durable. She prioritizes beaver pelt hats, which are often considered heirloom items, reflecting the wealth and heritage of the Dutton family. Similarly, the shirts worn by the characters are not ordinary shirts, but ones with distinctive western yokes and pearl snaps, functional flap pockets included.
Even the suits worn by the powerful patriarch John Dutton (Kevin Costner) tell a story. Unlike the impeccably tailored suits of visiting businessmen, Dutton’s attire reflects his lived-in lifestyle. His suits are slightly baggy, showing signs of years of wear and reflecting his priorities—ranching, not fashion. The contrast underscores his personality and underscores the differences between the Dutton’s established lifestyle and the newcomer’s ambitions.
Boone’s sourcing process also reflects her dedication to authenticity. She frequently shops at local Montana stores, including consignment shops and the Double H Hats boutique in Darby. When sourcing outside the state, she relies on brands like Filson, Levi’s, and Carhartt, appreciating Carhartt’s durability, which is perfectly suited for the rigors of ranch work.
The only central character who shows a preference for designer clothing is Beth Dutton (Kelly Reilly), who balances her role as a ruthless financier with her connection to the ranch. Boone’s strategic use of Max Mara power suits for Beth’s professional life and flowy prairie dresses for her time at the ranch demonstrates the duality of her character, while reflecting current fashion trends. Interestingly, Boone credits *Yellowstone* with popularizing the prairie dress, a style that was relatively uncommon before the show’s debut.
The show’s impact extends beyond the screen, influencing current high-fashion trends. The western aesthetic has become a major trend, with high-end brands like Miu Miu, Maison Margiela, and Chloé incorporating western elements into their collections. While Boone appreciates the acknowledgment of western culture by larger brands, she notes that this glamorized version is often unattainable for the working cowboys and cowgirls. She cites Pharrell’s fall 2024 Louis Vuitton collection, which featured real Oklahoma cowboys, as a tasteful and respectful homage.
Boone’s insights reveal that the enduring appeal of western style lies in its simplicity and connection to a time when life was less complicated. This authenticity, painstakingly recreated in *Yellowstone*, resonates not only with viewers but has also found its way into the global fashion world, making the show’s impact extend far beyond the screen.
