The fashion world watched with anticipation after Chemena Kamali’s Chloé debut sent shockwaves. Everyone wondered who would be the first celebrity to represent red carpet fashion with a full look from the buzzy boho chic brand. Soon enough, Zoe Saldaña graced the Met Gala in a sheer nude Chloé ensemble; Daisy Edgar-Jones promoted ‘Twisters’ in the fall 2024 pale blue mock neck dress; Sienna Miller brought the sheer white lace spaghetti strap dress to the Venice Film Festival; Suki Waterhouse opened for Taylor Swift’s London show in a flowing peach-toned dress; and Maya Rudolph walked the Emmys red carpet in the dusty rose iteration. The new Chloé Girls had arrived.
In recent years, some brands have implemented a policy requiring anyone borrowing a look to stay faithful to the runway styling. While the fresh-off-the-runway look is undeniably impactful (and we can only imagine the influx of stylist requests Chloé PR received after Kamali’s first show), this trend is quickly becoming stale. The full-look mandate, for one, lacks the flexibility needed in real-world situations. Stylists find their creative license on the red carpet diminished. Both Rudolph and Miller opted for thigh-high leather boots, a choice that seemed less appropriate than a strappy sandal or pump. This also explains accessories like Edgar-Jones’s gold statement necklace or Miller’s metallic cursive Chloé belt, which feel discordant with their personal styles.
Chloé, of course, isn’t the only brand requiring full looks, though it feels particularly pronounced. The full-look styling contradicts the free-spiritedness of the bohemian aesthetic Chloé embodies. Earlier this year, Bella Hadid wore a complete Gucci look from spring 2024 while out in New York City, a grey miniskirt and matching blazer with a nude tank top and towering platform monogram loafers. She even carried the same Ancora red bag with the telltale green-and-red striped strap. When promoting ‘Inside Out 2,’ Ayo Edebiri wore an eclectic paillette-covered vest over a button-up and printed asymmetrical skirt. However, the Dries Van Noten look, down to the heeled sandals and geometric printed socks, was exactly as seen on the runway.
The directive to wear a look as though it just walked off the runway robs celebrities of the chance to express their individuality. Hadid is a pioneering dresser, often starting trends with her outfits. It would have been much more interesting to see how she styled the Gucci skirt suit or the bonkers platform loafers, instead of a look anyone could have worn in the same way. This also undervalues stylists, depriving them of a key and creative part of their work. Hadid and Edebiri’s stylists, Molly Dickson and Danielle Goldberg, respectively, are two of the best in the game. Instead of allowing them to put a look together, they are essentially just called in when the outfit arrives.
There are valid reasons why brands want to maintain the runway fidelity of their looks. They may not want their clothing overshadowed or, worse, altered by the rest of the outfit. (Plus, there’s no doubt some celebrities receive compensation for wearing a full look.) However, ultimately, designers need to relinquish control. When collections hit retailers, they aren’t sold as full looks, but individual components. They can’t style every person who buys their clothing or demand that items be purchased and worn as complete outfits. People integrate pieces into their daily wardrobes and mix them with other brands. That’s how clothes are worn—not as predetermined full looks, but as a reflection of the wearer’s individual style. So please, designers, let’s end the full look mandate and let people dress like themselves.
